Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

How much power can the stock R34 GT-R air flow meters handle before it needs to be upgraded to bigger afms (Z32's) for more power?

To my understanding, isnt it around 300rwk's and not much more?

Cheers,

they will run to maximum voltage somewhere between 280 and 300kw. From there the tune is "blind", there is only a single point in the ECU for all airflow above 5v which means it is compromised in both fuel and timing to make sure it stays safe.

they will run to maximum voltage somewhere between 280 and 300kw. From there the tune is "blind", there is only a single point in the ECU for all airflow above 5v which means it is compromised in both fuel and timing to make sure it stays safe.

yep

yep

what he means is if its tuned and maxed out at 20psi, if the car overboosts or you turn the boost up the state of tune will not change as the ecu does not know the boost level has changed so it could cause detonation or a too lean of a mixture for the extra boost.

it works the other way as well, if the afm max's out at 17 psi and you tuned the car to 23psi, then you decide to turn the boost down to 17psi, then it will run too rich and you won't be getting the right power / mixtures for that boost level

So its kinda ok but not recomended to tune the car with a maxxed out AFM, if you dont intend on changing the boost at all then you can possibly get away with it if you have a decent boost control that will never fail and overboost

Thanks everyone for all of your replies.

I will be having the following mods:

Garrett GT2860-7 turbos

Apexi Power FC

Apexi Power FC Boost Control Kit (running 1.2, or even 1.3 bar)

Nismo 600cc injectors

Nismo fuel pump

Apexi Power intake kit

HKS cam pulleys

Tomei Poncams 260's type B

HKS Front pipe

HKS Cat

Blitz NuR cat back

So im guessing that with all of the above mods and the boost that I hope to be running (1.2 or even 1.3 bar) I should upgrade afms? I was thinking of the Nismo afms...

Cheers,

yeah I would. and I would get the nismo afms too. I went new gen nissan Z32s on the last GTR, and nismos on this one. performance wise they are very, very close. and the nismos have the advantage of being standard size.

yeah I would. and I would get the nismo afms too. I went new gen nissan Z32s on the last GTR, and nismos on this one. performance wise they are very, very close. and the nismos have the advantage of being standard size.

Oh ok so the Z32's are actually bigger than my stock ones? Which means they wouldnt bolt straight up?

And the Nismo ones would use the same ECU plugins?

Also, you dont think its over kill to get the Nismo ones for my application with the mods I have listed above?

Cheers,

Edited by xanavinismo

For 1.2-1.3 bar, i wouldnt bother upgrading until you actually know you've maxed them. I think its undue spending at this point.

You might well find you might come close, but they wont actually max @ that boost level. Every setup is different of course

And ye, if you do max them - Nismo all the way. Z32's are too much of a stuff around.

www.perfectrun.com.au are the cheapest for Nismo's that i've found recently... they can get em cheaper than an importer i know :D

Perfect run (providing stock) should have em here in 2-3 weeks so its not as if you have to wait forever anyhow.

What about Power FC D Jetro Glen? Then you wont have to run air flow metres at all. Just unplug them.

Thats how mine is with my Vipec ECU

Hi Bakes, unfortunately I already have my normal Power FC installed so its too late for D Jetro?

Oh and R31Nismoid, thanks for your input. I am most likely heading towards that direction where I get the car tuned and see if they do actually max out cos then I can always replace them with the Nismo ones if necessary.

On a bit of a side note, should I also upgrade the fuel pressure regulator to handle the Nismo 600cc injectors & Nismo fuel pump along with the other mods I have?

I am thinking of the Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator...

Cheers,

Cheers,

Edited by xanavinismo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...