Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the ecu's don't really rely on the map sensor. the fuel cut (known as rich and retard) is activated by the afm signal. once it gets to certain parts of the map the ecu says "oh no you don't sonny" and dumps in a heap of fuel and backs off the timing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274194-r34-map-sensor/#findComment-4649240
Share on other sites

the ecu's don't really rely on the map sensor. the fuel cut (known as rich and retard) is activated by the afm signal. once it gets to certain parts of the map the ecu says "oh no you don't sonny" and dumps in a heap of fuel and backs off the timing.

if that the case i might have bought a wrong fuel cut defender...

so when i buy 1 i should buy the one that is connecting to afm not map sensor..

am i right here?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274194-r34-map-sensor/#findComment-4654432
Share on other sites

r34s DO have a boost pressure sensor (well 2 actually one for the stock gauge and one for the ecu). its bolted to the fire wall right next to the blow off valve . i said boost pressure sensor because it cant really be a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor as it comes out of the J pipe .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274194-r34-map-sensor/#findComment-4654877
Share on other sites

from my understand the R34 has a boost pressure sensor to check for excessive pressure

that is, so the ecu knows if you try and run more boost. it uses this sensor to check, and runs its r&r protection when it see's a certain level of pressure

unsure if it also runs its normal r&r via airflow meter, but it certainly does via map sensor pressure

so your Fuel cut device would need to intercept this one

there are 2, as the others have said, one is for the stock guage (it would have wires running to the dash area)

and one would be for the ECU

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274194-r34-map-sensor/#findComment-4654880
Share on other sites

the ecu's don't really rely on the map sensor. the fuel cut (known as rich and retard) is activated by the afm signal. once it gets to certain parts of the map the ecu says "oh no you don't sonny" and dumps in a heap of fuel and backs off the timing.

the r34 does indeed have a boost sensor it is located near the std bov. It is located where the ignitor pack is on a early r33.

Said map sensor cuts all fun if it goes out of range.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274194-r34-map-sensor/#findComment-4655142
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...