Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just interested to see who has completed a 10 second pass using these turbo's. I recently did [email protected] with 1.85ft and was only allowed two passes. However I think there is another .2 left in this setup without using the gas.

-5s have done over 400rwkw before, and 380-390rwkw fairly easily many times. I dont think one is easier than the other from what the GTR's around here do.

How much power was that with again Paul? that was the 430rwkw?

I'll have to go and read some stuff, but I'm not totally sure 500rwhp and 126mph works out that well.

You should get 10's on -5's without gas

-5s have done over 400rwkw before, and 380-390rwkw fairly easily many times. I dont think one is easier than the other from what the GTR's around here do.

How much power was that with again Paul? that was the 430rwkw?

I'll have to go and read some stuff, but I'm not totally sure 500rwhp and 126mph works out that well.

You should get 10's on -5's without gas

ive given the weight and MPH...so the power level should be easy to work out.

to make it easy it was between 400 and 420 depending on how the engine was feeling on the day.

im pretty sure the day before racing we dyno'd it and a figure of 404 AWKW at 2 bar seems to ring a bell.

Edited by DiRTgarage
ive given the weight and MPH...so the power level should be easy to work out.

to make it easy it was between 400 and 420 depending on how the engine was feeling on the day.

im pretty sure the day before racing we dyno'd it and a figure of 404 AWKW at 2 bar seems to ring a bell.

I had a rough idea :dry:

Was more for everyone else's benefit :domokun:

And ye, get a .2 on the 60ft time, that's the 10 second pass done

I had a rough idea :dry:

Was more for everyone else's benefit :domokun:

And ye, get a .2 on the 60ft time, that's the 10 second pass done

yeah 2 10ths at the slow end will net 4 10ths at the fast end.

btw..i could easily work out how much power you were making given the trap speed and weight.

Its just that some like to claim crazy hp figures..then trap speed at the track indicates they could not have been making that kind of power.

My previous ride was an aspirated torana that ran 9.5 @ 141...i was just more curious to see what kind of hp guys were making compared to their et thats all...trap speed tells no lies though ,unlike some dyno's or owners.

btw..i could easily work out how much power you were making given the trap speed and weight.

Its just that some like to claim crazy hp figures..then trap speed at the track indicates they could not have been making that kind of power.

My previous ride was an aspirated torana that ran 9.5 @ 141...i was just more curious to see what kind of hp guys were making compared to their et thats all...trap speed tells no lies though ,unlike some dyno's or owners.

my car is well known and its power output is quite public due mainly to the car entering dyno comps which are ran under strict conditions. My MPH has always matched the dyno output of the car...the 400m dyno never lies.

The car had made 460KW+ at the tyres with the HKS 2530's but was never ran with that level of boost (2.5bar) at the track.

its funny how some people like to elevate the power level of their car only to be caught out when they run it down the strip. Some of this is often not the car owners fault but of dyno/workshop operators trying to inflate their ego's or abilities. Ive seen it time and time again at dyno comps too when cars don't come near a figure it made at (insert workshop name here) and blame the dyno or operator only to have my car go on and be within a few KW of what it normally makes.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Its a little presumptuous to assume just because a car runs lower power in a comp than expected that the tuner/workshop is inflating figures don't you think?

Sometimes, i would say yes.

However as past threads go, there seems to be a fair bit of 'inflating' going on sometimes :thumbsup:

Just interested to see who has completed a 10 second pass using these turbo's. I recently did [email protected] with 1.85ft and was only allowed two passes. However I think there is another .2 left in this setup without using the gas.

i guess thats better than some cars in perth running close to 500rwhp and trapping at 118mph :thumbsup:

126.5mph might squeeze you into a 10 but you will need decent tyres

i think there have been a few 32's in perth that have run 10's at 127mph

I didnt think it was possible to make that kind of power with these turbo's..

Im not doubting you at all dirt ,only surprised that you made 460kw.

I think i will definately be going with a set of these.

Although i am fairly new to gtr ownership..a few guys i have spoken to have said you wont make 400kw or over with the 25/30's .

shows how much they really know i guess.

10.34 @ 134

1474KG without driver

street tyres

no nos

HKS 2530's though

my car is well known and its power output is quite public due mainly to the car entering dyno comps which are ran under strict conditions. My MPH has always matched the dyno output of the car...the 400m dyno never lies.

The car had made 460KW+ at the tyres with the HKS 2530's but was never ran with that level of boost (2.5bar) at the track.

its funny how some people like to elevate the power level of their car only to be caught out when they run it down the strip. Some of this is often not the car owners fault but of dyno/workshop operators trying to inflate their ego's or abilities. Ive seen it time and time again at dyno comps too when cars don't come near a figure it made at (insert workshop name here) and blame the dyno or operator only to have my car go on and be within a few KW of what it normally makes.

What fuel??? I would've thought that 2.5 bar even on race fuel would be pushing shit up a hill.

I've seen around 370rwkw with the -5 on about 25psi of boost on a tired race engine RB26 on pump98.

I would like to think that you might see around 420rwkw with race fuel tho.

I didnt think it was possible to make that kind of power with these turbo's..

Im not doubting you at all dirt ,only surprised that you made 460kw.

I think i will definately be going with a set of these.

Although i am fairly new to gtr ownership..a few guys i have spoken to have said you wont make 400kw or over with the 25/30's .

shows how much they really know i guess.

467 to be precise...done at Powercruise dyno comp...its on the dvd for all to see. VP 104 fuel was used and 34psi of boost...we actually removed the actuator lines and let the turbo's produce as much boost as they could muster...yes im crazy!! ( a few little dyno comp tricks were also used that netted nearly 20KW more than it had ever made before )

the set-up was fairly simple...Full HKS 2530 turbo kit...4 inch cooler...Power FC...stock plenum. The engine was one of my builds with all Nissan internals except pistons, rod bolts and cams. It was built tough and copped an absolute thrashing for 3.5years before the N1 oil pump expired at 9500rpm banging it off the limiter launching at WSID.

I remember the night we cracked 400 at the treads on pump fuel...we thought it could never be done. Then we put race fuel in it and made another 42KW!!...ahh those were the days. Now if i dont make over 600KW im disapointed... :D

Edited by DiRTgarage

With the sort of boost that Dirt is talking about with a splash of good fuel that power level wouldn't be unbelievable. My own car R33GTR RB28 with 2530's is making 417awkw on 1.4bar (21psi) at at only 7100rpm on bp ultimate pump fuel and the power on the dyno sheet is still climbing so with full rpm 8500 it would be making an easy 425awkw and 2530's dont really come into their effeciancy untill the see at least 1.7bar (25psi) anyone wanting to check out the dyno graph it is posted in my build thread in the motorsport section dazmos R33GTR track car.

What fuel??? I would've thought that 2.5 bar even on race fuel would be pushing shit up a hill.

I've seen around 370rwkw with the -5 on about 25psi of boost on a tired race engine RB26 on pump98.

I would like to think that you might see around 420rwkw with race fuel tho.

Almost all the GTR's here, PULP - 380rwkw... 20-22psi tops. (2.6ltr)

Big $$$ motors will do over 400, and have done :(

That tired motor wasn't doing many favours, probably needed the extra few PSI to counter the blowby :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...