Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have the ogura unit same as rev210

it use to vibrate in 4th and 5th between 1500-2000rpm. I was told its a balance issue but i also tend to think it just took awhile longer for it to bed in as i don't get the vibration anymore.

and yes do it, response is awesome

I have no vibrations at all. I torqued the bolts up in proper 'star shaped' sequence to ensure the perfectly ballanced Ogura flywheel sat flush on the mounting point.

Craved,

Less acceleration up a hill? Rubbish! : A lightened flywheel equiped car will completely kill a car the same without a light flywheel. More so in the first few gears.

Bottom line is that the light flywheel equiped car out accelerates a standard flywheel equiped car up a hill or down a hill, into a headwind or going with the breaze. They are a dead heat off a cliff tho' (if your into that form of racing save your money).

The easy to stall part is because of the heavy clutch. I don't have a heavy clutch just a good 9 puck ceramic friction plate. Therefore no one has problems stalling my car.

i agree with you rev210, no chance of less "acceleration"! however i did say momentum, thus in a high gear in lower revs up a hill the lighter flywheel will drop revs quicker! Especially in a full/heavy car!!! thats all i was saying!

Guest darrinspencer

just for everyone's knowledge

Direct Clutches in Brisbane 07 3862 2680

Can do a lightened flywheel that weighs 5kg for $440 retail.

compared to others that are heavier and cost a fair bit more, makes these great value.

they also do a clutch kit

2800lbs organic clutch plate rated at 350rwhp or 260rwkw for

$530 retail

i have decided to put both these in my car.

I had a 'lightweight, cross drilled, balanced and machined' flywheel in my last car, i didnt get any vibration, and there was a definate performance increase...not a lot, but it made the car feel slightly sort of ligher...(more power i guess..)

the car also held speed better on a straight. ie. before it would slow down without pushing the accellerator a bit, but after you wouldnt have to push the pedal and it would hold speed.

Maybe you should find a cross-drilled one...apparently works sort of like cross drilled brakes, lessens the effect of a clutch overheating and slipping.

Originally posted by Richelieu

For piece of mind, billet alloy flywheels weigh in at less than 1 kg.

crap, a flywheel will not weigh less than 1 kg, a bike one maybe not a car tho.

i got a 4.8kg (ogura chrome molly) flywheel also and its makes a great difference in acceleration and i dont have any vibration problems. U will get vibration problems if u try lighten the stock flywheel.

I'm also considering a light weight flywheel but after speaking to perfomance shops etc I'm a little undecided, coz I want to keep everyday drivability.

Is there a severe decrease in bottom end torque? Apparently lightened flywheels are awesome above 3k rpm but suck for every day city driving?????

Altho siksII describes otherwise, I have also been informed that a lightweight flywheel will also cause the engine to drop revs a lot quicker when you back off the accelerator.

These 2 theories seem to make sense to me as less weight = less effort to make it move, but less weight = less momentum to keep it moving.

These 2 theories seem to make sense to me as less weight = less effort to make it move, but less weight = less momentum to keep it moving.

Thats right, my car revs much more nicely upto redline and i havent noticed any loss in low down torque.

Dont you hate when people give things bad reports when they would know shit about it or even driven a car with it??

yeh....deceleration will be quicker..not the car but the engine speed......its pretty simple lightened flywheel = quicker accel, quicker decel...

probably have to clutch in bit sooner and city driving will need bit more throttle than usual....(bumper 2 bumper)

Originally posted by Richelieu

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/articles/406sup...os/photo_4.html

third coloum, halfway down, says flywheel weighs in at less than 500g.

What the???? You are quoting an article about a touring car with an aluminium flywheel, that requires to be shimmed up every race to maintain contact, with a street driveable alloy flywheel that is designed to not need shimming???

you also stated "For piece of mind, billet alloy flywheels weigh in at less than 1 kg."

I didnt see that anywhere in the article no reference to billet or to alloy or to 1kg.

In case you havent noticed, this thread is about lightened flywheels for a skyline - find one that is available in alloy under 1kg designed for use on the street - you wont. Ogura is the lightest I have seen, and it weighs 4.8kg.

Originally posted by Richelieu

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/articles/406sup...os/photo_4.html

third coloum, halfway down, says flywheel weighs in at less than 500g.

and that article proves what? do u drive a touring car on the road and pull the flywheel out everyday??

Ok guys ill try explain how the lightened flywheel works in laymans terms...

Lets say u are going to push a box on the ground. If u have a light box, it is easier to push and quicker. If the box is heavy, it takes more time.

This can be related with the engine and flywheel. If the flywheel is light, the engine can get to higher RPM quicker, and if the flywheel is stock/ heavy, it takes the engine longer to get to higher RPM.

What this all means is that you can accelerate quicker due the the engine being able to rev quicker. This is the principle reason that people change flyhweels to lightened items. The only downside is that because the engine can increase in revs quicker, it also decreases in revs quicker.

Hope that makes sense to those confused.

and that article proves what? do u drive a touring car on the road and pull the flywheel out everyday??
find one that is available in alloy under 1kg designed for use on the street - you wont. Ogura is the lightest I have seen, and it weighs 4.8kg.

Fair enough. You guys are right.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
    • Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.
    • I used to love going to Amaroo to watch the HQ series go for broke (eventually stopped due to lack of spare parts) and also the Porsche series.  It was so cool to back your car up to nearly the edge of the viewing barrier and party with your friends, having a bbq and alcoholic/non drinks. It was such a family/mates atmosphere
×
×
  • Create New...