Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Harvey have it at $77 for preorder in their catalogue, but that catalogue ends today i think (going by the ad on tv). so who knows what the prices will actually be on thursday.

On another note, a heap of shops in france are already selling it.

what so all those links within ^^^^^^^ link can be downloaded and transfered to ur ps3 then played????????

also 20GB, is that the size for this download or is that how much space you will need on ur ps3 when the game installs????

For the PS3 trophy whores

http://www.ps3trophies.org/game/gran-turismo-5/trophies/

Also gives a look at whats going to be in the game.

It only uses 6.4gb for the install.

Edited by Dani Boi

I heard Harvey norman had it for presale for $77 on the radio. So I went there and saw signs saying Pre Order for $88. I told the guy I just heard $77 on the radio and he said ok, then he spent about 10 minutes trying to find it in the computer.

I was looking at his screen as he typed GT5 into search. GT5 Prologue came up and he said that's $44, I told him wrong game and he kept searching. Next he found GTA4 and I told him wrong game again. Eventually he found GT5 and clicked on the GT5 CE edition and asked for $138. Then I told him I just want the normal version (which was sitting right above the CE edition on his screen, He retyped GT5 into the comptuer and started searching through the massive list again. I saw before that they had 166 copies in stock and just told him dont worry i'll just buy it on the day.

Also checked dick smiths Which was $89 to preorder, the guy said just order it online for $79 + free delivery but I looked up there online service and found a forum thread full of complaints.

Cant wait for the release though :)

go buy it from JB hifi, the guy on the phone said that the price atm doesnt mean much, and they'll change it on thursday to make it as cheap as possible. he said ballpark price was around $110 but it will go down i guess to beat harveynormal and dicksmith etc.

I heard Harvey norman had it for presale for $77 on the radio. So I went there and saw signs saying Pre Order for $88. I told the guy I just heard $77 on the radio and he said ok, then he spent about 10 minutes trying to find it in the computer.

I was looking at his screen as he typed GT5 into search. GT5 Prologue came up and he said that's $44, I told him wrong game and he kept searching. Next he found GTA4 and I told him wrong game again. Eventually he found GT5 and clicked on the GT5 CE edition and asked for $138. Then I told him I just want the normal version (which was sitting right above the CE edition on his screen, He retyped GT5 into the comptuer and started searching through the massive list again. I saw before that they had 166 copies in stock and just told him dont worry i'll just buy it on the day.

Also checked dick smiths Which was $89 to preorder, the guy said just order it online for $79 + free delivery but I looked up there online service and found a forum thread full of complaints.

Cant wait for the release though :)

Thanks for the info much appreciated :) . I'll just have to wait for the day and see who has it the cheapest.

Must... resist... temptation to hold up an EB Games store!

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=163...107605795944446

:D

was at eb today and they had all the games in the glass cabinet behind the register ready to go and the price was $89 preorder, so i decided to wait till thursday and go the cheapest place :D

If the cars in this game still sound like electronic vacuume cleaners & handle like they have open wheel diffs I will make sure I bag every single review site I can access!

Reallllyyyy hoping they have come close to the sound Forza has mastered!

watch a few videos. you will see the sound is much better than previous games.

i think part of the issue with previous versions of the game (and people will still say the same about this game to an extent) is that they think the sound should be what they hear when the car goes past, however in the games they have always made it sound a bit more like the perspective from which you are driving. the sound of a car behind the car is different to that in the car or at the front of the car, and people driving from the front bar view should hear more engine noise and not as much exhaust note, while people driving from the rear view should hear more exhaust note and less engine noise. inside the car should hear a mix of exhaust noise, gearbox noise (in race cars), and engine noise.

also saying that a game is shit purely because of the audio is pretty sad and pathetic. how about you rate it on how it plays, rather than dismiss what is more than likely going to be the best handling racing game around, and probably the most visually advanced game. if the sound being slightly off is enough to outweigh all of that then i'm sorry, you are a super nerd.

more than likely going to be the best handling racing game around

Whoa - big call. Hope you're right.

I'm a sound nerd too. Yes, it's very important to me. Some of the community add on sound projects for other driving sims over the years have been fantastic. The right sounds can make a huge difference to the driving experience. Obviously not the most important thing in a game, but a big part of the enjoyment.

sound means very little to me as when i race i don't just go for a sunday drive and think to myself "oh that doesn't quite sound right", i mostly ignore the sound and put all my concentration into braking at the last second, hitting the apex and accelerating as early as possible. for me as long as the graphics are decent and it handles very well, then that is all i car about. i care about the racing and not all the wank factor stuff that goes with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...