Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That is the main thing I suppose, the PS3 is definetely at it's limit with this game. Did any one play it without installing the 8GB onto the hard drive? My god did it take forever to do anything!

Bring on the PS4 and GT6 I say!

Personally i would prefer shit graphics but a game that I'm so addicted too that i don't go to sleep, instead of this artsy piece of crap we got. I mean a photo section? FARK OFF, its a game.

This game to me seems like it was purely made to stroke some clowns ego at polyphony cause he thought he could produce the prettiest cars in a game.

this was also in gt4

Enjoying the game for what it is so far :)

Though i find playing with the arrows on the gamepad takes me 10x longer to do say the nascar challenges then what my brother can do with his steering wheel :whistling:

His setup the steering and throttle control makes it so much easier.. oh wells!

anyone find an r33 gtst?

there is no r33 gtst in gran turismo 5.

the japs dont drive whales, they eat them.

just got the international A license with golds all the way.. with a standard controller.. super licence tomorrow maybe

Edited by jonboy

Well I gave in and purchased the game today. It's a decent game for $77. Having played it more, I can say that the driving physics are definitely much better than previous games. Not sure how long i'll stay interested, but it will be good for casual gaming after a long day at work.

As for the people complaining about the lack of smoke in the mirrors or the white lines, honestly, who cares? well you obviously, but why? It would just be a bigger drain on resources and would have to come at the expense of something else. it seems as though people want everything but aren't willing to accept that maybe the ps3 isn't cappable of doing it.

since when is mentioning it the same as complaining about it... I don't really care, I just thought it was strange... we're discussing the game, its good points, bad points and in between... with this much hype and the long wait involved people are going to be critical... I like the game, it seems to get better the more you play, things get harder and more realistic

I bought a Delta Integrale last night to go rallying... which is great fun but the snow sections graphics were pretty poor... I guess your not able to see much when its snowing anyway

hey what do you guys think about making sort of a SAU gt5 group, given that theres heaps of us here.. we could all post our user name up and we can share drivers, cars etc?

or have i missed the boat and this already exists?

thoughts??

Why would you want an R33 gts-t when you can buy the series 3 R33 GTR :ph34r: or better R32 GTR.

I'm finding the game fairly easy tbh, haven't lost a race yet.

ummmmmmmm.... because its rear wheel drive??? And its a car lots of people drive that would love to play with on the game??

Cant believe the GTST isn't in there. What a joke.

I've been doing the AMG special events lately and man the SLS in the intermediate challenge goes good, been managing to get all golds so far but its a bit of a challenge on the full lap run when there is other cars going around at walking pace. :ph34r:

yeah. and in the info at the start it says that slower cars are supposed to drive on the right hand side of the track when faster cars are coming past. i had to overtake a heap that were driving on the left, even on straights.

BTW- The LFA sounds freaking awesome. Especially good when it gets past 8 grand. Just like in Yewtoob vids

Time for another trip to JB for a decent speaker set-up methinks

O'rly, will have to get me the LFA so i can try it out, my R34 GTR sounds pretty decent too with most mods although it sounds like it misses at low revs when i changed the exhaust to the titanium one??? weird.

BTW- The LFA sounds freaking awesome. Especially good when it gets past 8 grand. Just like in Yewtoob vids

Time for another trip to JB for a decent speaker set-up methinks

Try the Grand Touring Garage 1970 Mustang thing.

Costs a bomb but worth every cent. If you get a decent sound system your entire suburb will know everytime you drive it :banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...