Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Veyron... 2nd hand lot??? is it a std or premium?

they don't come premium

you can win one pretty easily. can't remember which event exactly. great for top speed, looks nice in tracking shots in the right colours- but that's it

yeah but GT5 HD is still shit,

GT HD has much better graphics

i dont get it..

gt5 graphics are insane..

and yea the "grand finale" ending movie was a big let down.. was just extended credits.. lame

Edited by jonboy

i played the game for about 5hours and gota over it, returned it back to eb games

i was dissapointed with it, thought GT5 was meant to be Gran turismo HD,

to be honest i have more fun with the r32 gtr in GT HD demo, on that same track then i do in GT5

hmm... 5 hours tells me you didn't do shit.

On a semi-related note, I thought it was "okay" until I bought my black LFA :banana:

I know it isn't the fastest car or the best handling car, but getting pics of a semi-sideways approach to a downhill corner with the exhaust flaming is worthy in every sense of the word :D

my 3.5 cents... regardless of the fact I find it hard to gather the energy to set the wheel up so I dont play it every night... usually only on the weekend... I fkn love the game. The racing feel is pretty impressive, a far jump up in comparison to prologue.

Yea i really really really hate the AI of other drivers & I wish the G27 was properly supported in the game so I could re-map buttons (i think i could be quicker in rally with a handbrake).

Is it worth waiting 4-5 years for? debatable... hence this thread but I love the game.

Worth buying the G27 for? - fk yes. Plus i've noticed the G25 & G27's really hold their value well when selling 2nd hand... so when I do ever get bored i'll not lose too much coin from initial purchase.

I've not ever had my PS3 connected to the net- Have there been any d/l patches for GT5 that I should be getting online for?

there have been 2. the first enables online play. pretty sure that one was 101mb. then you have to do a system update to get the next one. the second one apparently adds mechanical damage in online racing. it's 130mb.

apparently there will be some free downloadable cars available on 24th or 25th of december.

also in future updates some standard cars will be getting upgraded to premium models.

this is also an interesting video showing the performance difference of a SSD compared to a standard HDD in a ps3 for loading times in GT5

oh and i saved a replay of something funny that happened last night. i was doing the british lightweight cup race on the topgear test track. i was in my AC cobra or shelby cobra or whatever one it is. i was up against lotus' etc and was absolutely smashing them. on the last lap i was coming up out of hammer head towards the follow through and i could see the other cars coming down to the first corner. as i was getting to the tyres the cars were at chicago and were going across my path. i just kept the power on and managed to navigate betwen the last and 2nd last car as they crossed my path (they were heading to my left), overtook 2nd last on the right then shot through the gap between 2nd last and 3rd last. i saved the replay of it so i will either take a heap of screenshots of it, or record it on my phone and post it up sometime. i haven't watched the replay yet but i think it should look pretty cool.

In the older GT games the special licenses used to be hard to get gold, but i got gold on all the special licenses within 2 hours, what's the deal with that...?

because of ps3's capabilities being so many lightyears ahead of ps1/ps2 its now way easier to drive consistently and keep a smooth racing line. the test's themselves haven't got easier, but you are able to control the car far more accurately now even with the standard controller, thus making sightly easier to get fast times. anyone else noticed this?

if your not sure what i mean, throw gt4 in and have a go just for a laugh. in basically any car, the moment you hint the car in either direction, it gives the car an aggressive "jerk" in that direction even though such an aggressive movement isn't what you were after. the way it responds is just not realistic like it is in gt5. in gt5 the initial steering responds far more like how it would be done in real life

yea i had a quick look on a local stores online pricing...

I bought from tha same place a 500gb HDD sata for $95.

http://www.digitalmatrixcomputers.com.au/notebook_2_5_hdd?b=1

A 240gb SSD - $695

http://www.digitalmatrixcomputers.com.au/solid_state_drive__ssd_?b=1

because of ps3's capabilities being so many lightyears ahead of ps1/ps2 its now way easier to drive consistently and keep a smooth racing line. the test's themselves haven't got easier, but you are able to control the car far more accurately now even with the standard controller, thus making sightly easier to get fast times. anyone else noticed this?

if your not sure what i mean, throw gt4 in and have a go just for a laugh. in basically any car, the moment you hint the car in either direction, it gives the car an aggressive "jerk" in that direction even though such an aggressive movement isn't what you were after. the way it responds is just not realistic like it is in gt5. in gt5 the initial steering responds far more like how it would be done in real life

exactly. in the older games if you got a bit of wheelspin mid corner it pretty much meant you'd be looking at where you had just come from in the blink of an eye. now you can keep feeding on the power and drive out of the slide. i have great fun in the easier races using a high HP car with the traction control off and just blazing the tyres round every corner.

also understeer during braking is much easier to get out of in GT5 as well. you can lift off the brakes and straighten the steering and it will grip up again and you can get back on the brakes. also as you slow down hard on the brakes the front end grip actually improves the slower you get, rather than just continuing to understeer even at 10kmh.

also as you slow down hard on the brakes the front end grip actually improves the slower you get, rather than just continuing to understeer even at 10kmh.

That is SUCH a huge fk up in near all racing/simulation games... just destroys any feeling of realism. Yes GT5 makes me feel like I am really driving a car... not just steering a game.

After a marathon (for me anyways) 6 hour session I had to run down the shops n grab some milk in the new corolla... haha... my wheel/pedal/gear shift setup pretty closely matches the corolla so it was pretty quick trip :)

yea.. they are insanely expensive for not much space. it'll be awesome when they come down in price

I have also looked into this and the price of a SSD drive is pretty high for a decent size one. Thinking of getting one of these.

http://www.seagate.com/www/en-au/products/laptops/laptop-hdd/

because of ps3's capabilities being so many lightyears ahead of ps1/ps2 its now way easier to drive consistently and keep a smooth racing line. the test's themselves haven't got easier, but you are able to control the car far more accurately now even with the standard controller, thus making sightly easier to get fast times. anyone else noticed this?

Ah ok yeah your probably right. Got a nice GTR v-spec so that was alright

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...