Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone done any of the seasonal 4 races that came out today? They are super easy like round 3. the highspeed ring one in the jtcc cars was a piece of piss. was in the lead by the first corner of lap 4 (8 lap race), won by ages. was doing sub 1 minute laps wit a best of 58.112. i was using the woodone gtr like what is posted above, tuned up to 701hp

Ooooo new ones already? sweet

yes the nascar race is easy, but i found if i drove gently i'd eventually just hit the gas a bit too hard while at lower than rediculous revs and i'd spin on the way out of a corner...so i just flogged it around :) seemed to work well, and more practice around the ring. and more fun IMO, im in nooo hurry to finish the game. man i love that track :)

new 1tb per month cable plan, now for some online haha!

1tb? fkn hell im sick of hearing about all these awesome internet plans everyone has that we cant get in nz. our isp's give us a pitiful amount of data per month depending on the plan (the biggest are like 40gb) and so help you god if you go over your cap the isp bends you over their knee and spanks your ass raw while their best mate shafts you with excess data charges.

My plan recently went from 50g per month to 1tb as well without even being told by Optus.

On topic, I'm stuck in an A-Spec rutt at level 30 I seriously don't wanna do the Suzuka 1000. B-Spec on the other hand is motoring along nicely at level 34.

My plan recently went from 50g per month to 1tb as well without even being told by Optus.

On topic, I'm stuck in an A-Spec rutt at level 30 I seriously don't wanna do the Suzuka 1000. B-Spec on the other hand is motoring along nicely at level 34.

the suzuka 1,000 is only a set number of laps correct? just grab the fastest car possible and it'll cut the time down. its the tsukuba 9Hr endurance that i am trying to avoid. no matter what car, its still 9 hours pinch.gif

^ yes, 172 laps

meanwhile...

after 8 days of running the PS around the clock to finish the enduros, B-spec is done. it gets a well earned rest tonight

So you got to level 40? How many times did you have to run Le Mans 24 hours to get from 35-40?

Edited by NISMATT

So you got to level 40? How many times did you have to run Le Mans 24 hours to get from 35-40?

I did a few other shorter B-spec enduros when I didn't want the PS3 tied up for a whole day, but i think it was 9

if you go from 34 to 35 with no/nearly no extra xp, you'd need to run Le Mans 11 times to hit 40

finished Nurburgring a while ago and got another MP4 as a gift car (which i knew about), and got a Formula GT from the mystery ticket. doh!- i shouldn't have bothered buying the used one for 4.8m cr! =\

Yeah- I read about the possibility of doing that the other week.

Would be pretty sweet if you didn't need to physically be at the console to start the races. That'd make it a lot easier to get to lev 35 if you could remote in from work.

Connected my PS3 to the internet today (wireless) & in order to play GT5 online I needed to download the latest version 1.05... It seems to download fine, it starts installing & once it gets to 14% it displays 80029564 error. This has happened to me at least 4 times now, I've done some research on this and have come up with a list of possibilities none of which sound concrete. Has anyone had this problem and corrected it?

I want to play some GT

Yeah- I read about the possibility of doing that the other week.

Would be pretty sweet if you didn't need to physically be at the console to start the races. That'd make it a lot easier to get to lev 35 if you could remote in from work.

Grrrrr....all these video gamers and bookfacers at work. im too busy working to do things like that during a work day...even too buggered to play GT most arvo's after work :(

and sry Tomek, no such issues here, cant help ya

Edited by boiracer

Connected my PS3 to the internet today (wireless) & in order to play GT5 online I needed to download the latest version 1.05... It seems to download fine, it starts installing & once it gets to 14% it displays 80029564 error. This has happened to me at least 4 times now, I've done some research on this and have come up with a list of possibilities none of which sound concrete. Has anyone had this problem and corrected it?

I want to play some GT

i had something similar issue with mine always failing during updates. i ended up jumping on the computer, going into the router settings and having the ps3 excluded from the firewall. i can't remember how to do it (i found out how on some forum i found on google)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...