Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

did all the seasonal 6 races today....last 2 were actually a little challenging (without going nuts on car mods) the new Corvette sounds like crap apparently

almost 9 mill in the bank and some more dam sexy cars. 220+ atm

I used a corvette I already had in the stable. Had to do every mod to it, including rebuild the engine before I had a chance of winning that race. Dam I hate that track!!! In hind sight, I would have been better off buying a new (faster) Vette and using that as a starting point. On the flip side, I already had the MX5 and just fitted racing tyres and a filter and ECU - won the race easily enough.

I used a corvette I already had in the stable. Had to do every mod to it, including rebuild the engine before I had a chance of winning that race. Dam I hate that track!!! In hind sight, I would have been better off buying a new (faster) Vette and using that as a starting point. On the flip side, I already had the MX5 and just fitted racing tyres and a filter and ECU - won the race easily enough.

did the same today at a friends. the 2000 model.did almost everything to it and still didnt catch him...only 5 seconds off when we gave up.

i highly recomend the newest angriest Vette, and do a few good angry mods. much easier to drive.

Liger- not that ive seen :(

has anyone come across a Mercedes-Benz CLK-GTR LM Race car at all?? be it in the used car section or from winning a race?

I have one I traded for it. I don't think you can win it but it shows up in the UCD, if your keen for one pm me your psn and I can give you one.

I used a corvette I already had in the stable. Had to do every mod to it, including rebuild the engine before I had a chance of winning that race. Dam I hate that track!!! In hind sight, I would have been better off buying a new (faster) Vette and using that as a starting point. On the flip side, I already had the MX5 and just fitted racing tyres and a filter and ECU - won the race easily enough.

i had one of the c6 or zr1 corvettes (the supercharged 7L one or whatever it is) with racing modifications done to it that i'd used in other races. i was in the lead by the end of the second or 3rd lap. ended up lapping half the field.

has anyone come across a Mercedes-Benz CLK-GTR LM Race car at all?? be it in the used car section or from winning a race?

and I'm still waiting for a long-tailled BMW F1 GTR to show in the UCD :(

i had one of the c6 or zr1 corvettes (the supercharged 7L one or whatever it is) with racing modifications done to it that i'd used in other races. i was in the lead by the end of the second or 3rd lap. ended up lapping half the field.

yup- the '09 ZR1 Corvette; it's the best car to win the American Championship with, after being RM'ed

saw this today......how do they intend on getting away with it....i say disqualify them all. what do they do if they make it to the finals and actually have to race the lap??

Americans

P.S. crap track anyways....designer should be shot

Edited by boiracer

I think its the expert series there's a race series for the older (pre 79) le mans type race cars. Can't remember what it's called right now. What cars have people used to finish these races? I've been trying with a Countach with every mod i can buy but the best it can do is 2nd with absolutely no chance of a 1st. :(

<br>I think its the expert series there's a race series for the older (pre 79) le mans type race cars. Can't remember what it's called right now. What cars have people used to finish these races? I've been trying with a Countach with every mod i can buy but the best it can do is 2nd with absolutely no chance of a 1st. <img src="http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif" class="bbc_emoticon" alt=":("><br>
<br><br>I used the Toyota 7 and I think that it's a prize car B spec somewhere.  I have heard it ''can'' be won with the Countach but I tried it too and theres no way I could have won with it either. Edited by NISMATT

I'm selling my code on eBay, I haven't even played B Spec yet. The only reason I bought the Signature edition was that I thought that the SLS AMG competition was open to everyone who forked out for that pack, not just for 15 players across the world who have no life except for playing GT5 B Spec 24/7.

eBay link - GT5 Signature Edition SLS AMG Competition code auction

Starting bid is $20, Buy It Now for $150. Up for the next 3 days.

wha? I forgot to do my entry for the SLS AMG. I'm guessing that A: I'm now too late and B: there was some other task I had to complete apart from shelling out $$$ for the game which promised me an entry in a draw to win an SLS AMG? arseholes.

I think its the expert series there's a race series for the older (pre 79) le mans type race cars. Can't remember what it's called right now. What cars have people used to finish these races? I've been trying with a Countach with every mod i can buy but the best it can do is 2nd with absolutely no chance of a 1st. :(

Hehe I had a go the other day. I only have one car that qualifies, which actually has some hp, but it wasn't quite up to the task. While the '62 Buick special may hose other pre-80's sedans, it's no match for proper race cars of the era. Poor thing lost about 10 sec in the first half lap, and only got worse from there.

I filed that one away for the "when I have a spare 50 million credits to waste on cars I'm only going to drive once" category.

I think its the expert series there's a race series for the older (pre 79) le mans type race cars. Can't remember what it's called right now. What cars have people used to finish these races? I've been trying with a Countach with every mod i can buy but the best it can do is 2nd with absolutely no chance of a 1st. :(

Hey mate it is possible with the countach tuned properly, I did it. The trick is to make sure the 2J is behind you on the starting grid. Then when you get down the straight on deep forest you just block him from passing you. The second course is much easier than the first as well, was in front by around 7 seconds.

i just nutted thru B spec to get the Toyota 7. "like the wind" is where you win it. and the Minolta in the Aspec version.

both cars are priceless in the racing scheme of things. saves you spending alot on buying equivalents

i wont get the chance to do ahte seasonal races untill tomorrow night anyway, so it does not bother me too much, altho i would like another 787B.

i've asked a few people about this, but how many of us race online? i've been toying with the idea of creating SAU room on a friday night/weekend night. but if the numbers are low it might not be worth it.

Mmmm 787B. awesome car

im keen for online racing...but im on that irregularly i cant really dedicate any weekend night.....everyone i know is having their 30th this yr. every weekend is a party (not that im complaining)

and yes bring on more seasonals

OK now at about level 31/32 for a and b spec...was a real pain in b spec winning the extreme series historic racers challenge whatever that is. Toyota 7 ftw. Damn that 2J when it starts on the front row I thought I had no chance :)

I shoulda bought the Nissan R92C when I had the chance, but I'm happy with my R89C. seems easier to control than the Minolta.

does anyone have a gripe with the tuning? I mean an R34 vs2 n1 can only muster about 800hp fully tuned? and let's not forget that the figures given are at the flywheel not atw. They've munted the tuning on a lot of cars but I notice it on the skylines relative to old GT's. the old GT's could pull 1100hp or more sometimes out of a skyline, has anyone managed over 1000hp with any GTR?

yes and no, they do become somewhat undrivable anyways once fully done up. my 33 GTR has 580hp (not fully pimped) and unless i fiddle with the suspension, and make it 25/75 F/R drive its too understeery for my likings at all. just seems to get more with more power.

even the tommy ZZII suffers from this a little.

P.S. not a complain, just an observation. anything can be worked around i guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...