Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just found that you can't have more than 20mil credits...scumbags ripped me off about 100k that last race.

Old news dude - get with the program

I found out about 10am yesterday :whistling:

But yeah - just go on a spending spree!!

Does anyone know if you get the same exp for enduros on A-Spec as you do for B-Spec? I'm doing the level 35 24 hr enduro B-Spec race and you have to do it about 7 times to reach level 40 :down: As if anyones going to do it that many times in A-Spec...?

Just checked up on my B spec drivers and here is my highest earner over the last few days, no one should ever be broke again with the remote feature.

Agreed.

I ran about 14-15 races yesterday with a full 16 driver grid (although 6 or them were mine).

$875k while at work is pretty handy.

im 5.5 hours into the le mans 24 hour b spec race and wow i love the time, night&dark etc this is awesome. but yea polyphony really do need to sort out the issues with the headlights. if u go to bumper cam/cockpit cam you cant see more than about 10 meters ahead, and im sorry but that just doesnt cut it when your doing 400kph+ you need realistic lighting. but thats about the only major gripe i have with this game. im sure its nothing they cant fix with a software update and they've ironed out most the other kinks in the game so far so hopefully this one isnt far off

Hehe I'm about 8.5 hours in - great minds think alike, hey?

Is yours a rainy race? Mine started with rain and hasn't changed. The Minolta can't use its huge power advantage in the wet, so unless I'm telling the driver to speed up, he drops pace and lets the others catch up. Hope I can build enough of a lead by tonight so that they can continue through the night without dropping a place.

Yes - there's no way I could drive these cars at night - the headlights are awful - even worse with the rain. Seriously needs to be addressed if I'm even going to bother with any night races / stages (including rally)

Edit: almost 10hrs in and all drivers pitted for intermediates. Guess that answers my question about variable weather.

Edited by warps

yeah the variable weather is awesome.. mine started out a fine sunny day then during the night it rained for a while but dried up by morning now i've just woken up and im less than an hour away from finishing but i've got oil light.. anyone else had oil issues late in 24 hour races?

Mine lasted a dozen laps on the intermediates then went back in for wets and stayed that way. I started another 24h race this morning - had 5 or 6 goes at starting a completely new race and all started with rain. Eventually decided to stick with it and they were all on intermediates. After 8 laps, all the cars came in for race tyres, even though it was still raining. Now all the cars are spinning off on every corner, so I brought my driver in for intermediates. He went back out and blitzed the field (taking over a minute off everyone each lap becasue he actually stays on the track) but the game keeps wanting to bring him back in for slicks on every lap. Farking stupid game!!!

Yes, my Toyota needed an oil change after the race (did an oil change and engine rebuild before the race started)

im curious wat the hell is the point in the car wash feature. during the race, it got dirty everywhere she was a mess, yet when i get out and look at it in the garage its clean as a whistle? so why would anyone use the car wash when it makes no difference whatsoever

I think that's meant to be damage along the right hand side of the car (I bounced off that many walls, the right hand side of the car was completely black). I notice that body damage seems to be represented with shadows, but the body shape doesn't actually change. Wings, nosecones etc deform as you damage your car, but the main body doesn't seem to.

My current 24h race has all of the cars bent and twisted at the front and back, thanks to them all running on slicks in the rain. Now it's pissing down again and they're all on full wets. Have yet to see any dry track at the Lemans 24h (although I'm only checking progress every couple of hrs through the day).

good point on the damage being black.

and i love how far the rear wings can deform and yet the car drives fine...lol

on that point im glad the damage isnt just gray and white scratches like many car games damage, shift for example. as much as the model of the crashing is better...those lines just look stupid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...