Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtr - Is This Rust Common? (hard To Explain - Pics Attached!)


Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls,

I have a bit of rust in a section which is a bit hard to explain. its near the bottom front window plastic and under the side guard. (i've taken a few pics)

It hasnt gotten any worse in the close to 3 years i have owned her and only looks like surface rust. I've been meaning to sand it back, seal and recoat with some touch up paint for a while but havent got around to it yet.

Anyway, is this a common problem? Does anyone else have it? :(

Any info or advice would be appreciated.

Cheers!

post-54322-1245517684_thumb.jpgpost-54322-1245517887_thumb.jpg

post-54322-1245517968_thumb.jpg

Edited by KR4-GTR

Just a couple of Qs...

It looks as if there's been some fixed-up panel damage > re-weld does it not?

It looks like surface rust only; but is there any bubbling especially if you press on it?

Have the corners of the panel bolts been chamfered as if the panel's been taken off?

Does water sit there after rain or wash?

Does the moulding at the base of the windscreen need replacing?

btw, surface rust can lead to 'cancer'

if its stabilised for past 3 years why worry about it - for peace of mind a quick fix is to get a spray can of fish oil and spray the discoloured area this seals and prevents against any rust - will kill any rust if it is rust - done !

if its stabilised for past 3 years why worry about it - for peace of mind a quick fix is to get a spray can of fish oil and spray the discoloured area this seals and prevents against any rust - will kill any rust if it is rust - done !

Touche'... that is what I am going to do until one day I can get a respray!

I think you will find its not corrosion in the usual sense - I think its that the finish colour has been applied very thinly over the etch prime in out of place areas when the body is painted at the factory - you see the same discolouration in various places in some Jap (and other country) cars e.g. inside where intrusion bars are fitted in doors , in hard to get to places on the body panels where front bar is fitted etc - its normal , just like orange peel finish was normal on outer underside edges of US made cars some years ago

where can one purchase this fish oil stuff from? do they come in them sprayable cans?

repco supacheap ..........everywhere - about $6-8 usual larger size spray can

when it dries fully it is usually clear - you could spray paint over it if necessary

yeah my series 2 gtst has the eaxact same surface rust..... just how the buggers are.... i'd only really worry about rust if you see it bubbleing and going down deep..... usually first place serious rust starts on our imports is under the wheel arches where the japs throw salt on the icy roads to reduce the slipperyness of the roads.....

hey ya'll just been doing some reading on the various treatments of rust ... apparently fishoil is good for preventing any new rust but it won't get rid of any existing stuff plus it doesn't penetrate existing rust which could lead to more rust

Apparently a product called 'Penetrol' available from Bunnings actually penetrates rust deep and takes away the Oxygen and stops any further rust from forming .. apparently don't even need to clean the rust spots up before applying this stuff. Anyone used it before ?

  • 3 years later...

I've got alittle bit of this surface rust starting both sides, Do not like looking at it. Cars mint other then this, So would like to fix it.

How would I go about fixing it. It looks simple enough to do myself, Taking side skirts,front fenders and front bar off is the only fear I have, Then sand it body filler if needed then paint it, And make it look beautifull again, Has anyone had this and fixed it. Did you go to panel beater or DIY it?

Or is going this far not necessary, it just looks sh#t

Edited by dyl33

The Conversion Paint is easily brushed on with a quality long hair brush. It does not affect the colour of your existing paint, because it dries clear. Within an hour the difference is there before your eyes.

The Fish Oil I have is in an aerosol can.

This process stopped any more rusting of an Alfa Romeo in its tracks. Any automotive paint shop has it - but I don't know about Repco/Auto1/Supercheap

Hmmm, I usually treat rusts with the usual wire brushing for removal, then zinc spray (lightly), then spray paint over. No oils of any kind or rust converters. Opinions in this gents? Never knew about fish oil until reading through SAU forums, got to learn boatloads, especially from the build section.

I had the same problem and although it wasnt progressing over a few years i still decided to fix it. Just remove the arch, wire brush and sand it back as far as u can to really clean it up. Its usually just surface rust with some pitting. Then apply some rust converter (which youll get from supercheap etc.), give that the recommended time to penetrate and then u should be able to blend the colour or ive just sprayed the area matt black because it cant be seen unless u look. Thatll hold it off for quite awhile. Ive had no issues since.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...