Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
On 17/03/2021 at 8:09 AM, Ben C34 said:

What?

I mean to these are tried to make conversion from RB25DE/DE NEO to DET/DET NEO

Does thay'll change cylinder block but knowing all RB25 blocks it's 75t , could all used for turbo?

 

 

Sorry for bad spelling or mistakes in my write

  • 1 month later...
On 22/06/2009 at 5:48 AM, dwest said:

This is a question many have asked.

I spent 2 years in Japan and before I went there I didnt even know how to change oil. All I did was turn wrenches for the Japanese in exchange for cheap cheap cheap parts. I once got an Rb26dett from a R33 for 400USD...

Anyways I was going on and on about my honda days when we used to build the crap out of a tin can and call it tuning, I did alot of watching back then.

I wanted to build a Rb25det and use the money from selling the 26 to achieve 500hp to the wheels with moderate cash less then 10kusd. Maybe around half of that.

I went on about forged this and upgraded that.

The Japanese guys scratched there head and said WHY!!!

They assured me a stock Rb25det on a stock headgasket was more then capable of 500hp. They said to add a accusump, and some injectors, a ebay turbo and tune and have fun...

I couldnt belive it but yes its true. How do I know? Because I did it and the engine is in my car right now. I blew the engine about 5 months ago but thats because I got boost happy and went up over 1.9 bar... oops my knock light got ignored because I wanted to teach a porche a lesson I won the fight lost the war.

Anyway back to the story. So here is what your RB can take relaibly:

RB20det: 350-400hp You will need a headgasket and might experiance lag of course you will need a turbo capable of getting you here along with a tune etc... But the engine itself is one of the strongest RB the Rb20det is stronger then both the Rb25 and 26... They just lack displacement.

RB25det anything under 550 is golden with this engine its solid as hell and has half the problems of its big brother the Rb26dett its just the Rb26dett has more upgrade potential and can strectched farther now the R33 versions are solid. The R34 versions have weaker blocks and the computer crap makes them a pain to tune.

The R32 have the oil starvation issue but before you go out buying Jun oil pumps and sumps and spending crazy money heres how the Japanese do it. Its called an Accusump it will cost you about 300usd that and a baffle and problem solved.

The Rb26dett is excellent in the R33 sturdy block, better design, usually lower mileage then the R32 version, less complicated then the R34 version and can be cross compatible with all Skyline chasis. There is no downside to this motor, in order to reach well over 600 the rods and pistons will have to go.

The engine can do 600 reliably with the right safety mods.

Accusump, baffle, huge oil cooler, GOOD TUNING!!! GOOD TUNING!!! GOOD TUNING!!! I cant stress that enough... Its all about your tune when going for big numbers dont practice on your baby go to a professional now your beater is a diffrent story...

This same information has been stressed before... You can do just fine with N1 oil pumps, and water pumps, you dont need Tomei, Jun, Greddy, they are overprices and good for another 1000rpm ooooh... An Rb is not an Sr it has the torque downlow to make you smile without high RPM...

Also for the Rb25det guys here is a little advice stay the hell away from high lift cams that take major head mods, the reason is because the Rb25det is stroked in a way to reject high lift cams even after the head is built up. For this reason you lose low end power and without a Jun oil pump ie 1500 dollars you will blow your motor to get the most out of your cams, 256 to 260 lift is more then enough...

If you feel you need 272's then its time for a Rb26dett... You lose power where it counts in a 25 with huge mods...

No need to stroke your Rb26 to an Rb28dett. Michia a freind in Japan has 900whp on an Rb26dett with just forgies and bolt ons and he has lost no torque and he doesnt have a jun oil pump or anything like it he uses an N1...

He also has poncams imagine that... He has 2 big twins and a GREAT TUNE!!!

Save yourself some money and spend the money where it counts... Support mods...

Research accusump it can be your best freind and save you thousands...

Cheap and reliable does not happen. 😂😂😂

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...