Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The yellow bar is of no concern, I think from memory it says something like "Information" my screen shows the yellow bar with japanese characters too.

I agree with Pure, it may just be a service reminder, a few people here though can read japanese so they may be able to confirm.

Have you ran the diagnostic test to see if you get error codes? If not, do a search of the forum and you should find the test to perform.

i thought the yellow bar meant you have no navigation disc inserted??

anyway, have a search for 'V35 pit', and there are detailed instructions on how to clear that. its not serious, its a service interval reminder is all

i thought the yellow bar meant you have no navigation disc inserted??

anyway, have a search for 'V35 pit', and there are detailed instructions on how to clear that. its not serious, its a service interval reminder is all

*cue music*

Tell him what he's won Dave!

*cue crowd cheering*

Well for his effort to alleviate any worrying by "scottnothing", zei20l, or Iain as others know him, has won a fantastic prize consisting of his name associated with solving problems for M35 Stagea's for the lifetime of the SAU website!

*crowd applause*

Not only that! But if you look deep enough, you will find this correct answer in the annals of internet history for all time!!

*crowd goes nuts*

Ladies and Gentlemen! ZEI20L!!!!

.... yes it is a slow work day.

Edited by iamhe77
  • Like 1
i thought the yellow bar meant you have no navigation disc inserted??

Double bonus,,,,,,, he got this one right toooooo..... yyyeeehhhhhh.

Let us know if you can not find the instructions of how to clear with a search on the forum. very easy.

Cheers

Andy

Ill have a look for the stuff to clear it. Weird that it would be a service indicator as it only just past 43000. Kinda strange time to service.

It would be cool if you could push something and some lil Japanese guys would come from nowhere and change your tires and fill your fuel.

Ill have a look for the stuff to clear it. Weird that it would be a service indicator as it only just past 43000. Kinda strange time to service.

It would be cool if you could push something and some lil Japanese guys would come from nowhere and change your tires and fill your fuel.

the service intervals are user set so they can come up any time.

I am a bit of a rookie at the forum thing but i cant find the instructions to remove the Pit on the display.

Also does anyone know how to manually set it?

Cheers,

OK.....(I want a prize for this Cameron!)

1/hit the 4th button along the top of the HU display controller.

2/Scroll down to the second last setting....just before ECT....and push the controller in.

3/press controller in again

4/scroll up 1 press controller in again....this reset's

5/then go back 1....bottom RH button once on the HU display controller

6/scroll down one and repeat steps 3 to 5

7/scroll down another one and repeat steps 3 to 5

8/scroll down another one and repeat steps 3 to 5

9/done

to manually set it just set the KM's to what you want....don't know what the translations are though.

Edited by Jetwreck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...