Jump to content
SAU Community

Stalling Question

Easy Tiger
 Share

Recommended Posts

Easy Tiger Enthusiast

Easy Tiger

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi guys

My V35 has been running fine but occasionally gets a little rough idle/shudder. It has never stalled before but a couple of times I thought it might.

Tonight I turned it over and it started up fine, but then the revs dropped suddenly and it stalled - first time it has happened. I started the car again and it made a weird noise for about 1-2 seconds at most, and then it was good as gold again. Drove it home and had no more dramas. No warning lights have shown up, nothing.

Anyone got any ideas what it might be? Could it be dodgy fuel?

Cheers.

Edited by Easy Tiger
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276601-stalling-question/
Share on other sites
dannyw Community Regular

dannyw

Posted
Posted

i had same problem, it's like everything i start the car(not at cold) the car will start, idle rev drop and stall.. I 'fixed' this problem by every time i start the engine, i rev it a little(just a little!!). After 1 month, i stop and the problem is gone

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

throttle body might be dirty and needs a clean. AFAIK there are no ICV on VQ motors due to drive-by-wire. also try cleaning the AFM, maybe the plugs are old too and might need changing.....

also check for airleaks, might be a vacuum hose thats come off somewhere

  • 1 month later...
Easy Tiger Enthusiast

Easy Tiger

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just thought I would let you all know that I think I have found the problem. Got my spark plugs pulled out and checked when getting a service done on the weekend and found oil pooling around two of the plugs. Need to get two new rocker cover seals installed and replace the two spark plugs which were only replaced 16k ago.

I highly recommend if you haven't checked yours to have a look.. it is a common problem as per below.

http://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sedan-v35-...arranty-up.html

My engine light turned off almost immediately after cleaning the plugs out and the rough idle is gone.. anyone who has seen a couple of my posts will remember I have had that issue coming on and off for a while now.

worldwalker Contributor

worldwalker

Posted
Posted

I had the EXACT same problem with mine. Its caused by a battery dieing slowly or a battery reset etc.

For some reason you need to clean the throttle body and MAF (mass airflow meter), no matter how clean they appear, for any of this to work. So I'd say do that first and see how it goes. If it fails then go through the next 2. (I didn't remove my TB I just cleaned it on the car using nulon carby cleaner)

Replace the battery.

Then go through the ECU reset. (I dont have the link but jsut type it into google and you'll find it)

It involves depressing the throttle and turning the ignition in a set sequence to a certain timing. Be as accurate as possible counting will not work you MUST use a stop watch I'd recomend using a clock with texter marks around the outside with 1 2 3... writen around the outside in order of the times; each sequence takes about 45 seconds to complete and you need to do different sequences to reset the ECU, the throttle possition and the cold idle sensor.

Once its done you'll be sweet! I did mine in the wrong order and still starts and runs fine now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...