Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all...ive just installed autometer ultralite aftermarket 52mm gauges..

now there working just fine...but...the backlight is f**ken shocking...they came with led's!

but at night i can barely even read the gauges.

now what have you guys done with aftermarket gauges that are too dim to read??

any help would be tops.

cheers, Bass

i swapped out my regular bulby type buld :( with a T10 LED

like these

226196.jpg

its just the right amount of brightness IMO. but you have to stuff around with the bulb holder to make it fit. its not very hard though.

i used the white leds, and it shows up with a hint of blue in it. looks good.

Edited by Munkyb0y
i got the stepermotor series ones. they are well bright enough.

th_P220609_211301.jpg

They're Autogauge not Autometer aren't they?

The Autogauge gauges are permanently lit up and use the light signal to dim themselves for night driving.

+1 for using 666dan's bulbs.... autobarn have something similar... but dan's are better... I have tried both, especially as u find some become very spotty and directional, whereas these u can marginally alter the direction of the led's to make them more fluent.

well these are for my autometer ultralite gauges but the odd thing is...the face is alumunium and not transparent so no light is emitted through it, but only around it.

this is my vdo gauge with 666dan's white led in it. it has a white aluminium face.

the blue is not as obvious as it looks in the pic.

38.jpg

yes i know its not some crazy jdm gauge, but its accurate and perdy enough for me :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...