Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

According to the Guys at Just-Jap they told me that its the same bolt pattern as R33 GTST AFM's. They recomended bolting an Apexi R33 pod straight up to the AFM.

I havent checked this, but I have pulled the AFM out and traced its shape so I can go in and check before purchasing.

Same as the one for the R33 GTS-t and lots of Commodes...

According to the K&N box, model number;

33-2031-2

Which panel filter from K&N fits the M35? There are a shitload of them and I can't find one listed for the M35 or V35 anywhere (I read somewhere the V35 has the same airbox).

Don't want to get the wrong one.

Thanks. Never done much modifying so I have a lot of learning to do. Only ever really done normal servicing (and that was just on a falcon)

You and me both.

My M35 is the first car I have "played" with... Had a VH crappydore and an R31 but had no interest in modding so they were both stock as a rock and rather boring.

Edited by iamhe77
Which panel filter from K&N fits the M35? There are a shitload of them and I can't find one listed for the M35 or V35 anywhere (I read somewhere the V35 has the same airbox).

Don't want to get the wrong one.

there are heaps that use the same

s15 is one that comes to mind. also wrx use the same

i got the box at home with the part number if you need it later?

apparently they are really common

i think same size as the commodore 1's

Common panel filter indeed.

Here is the list of Nissan's that use the same panel filter as an M35 (easy to find Australian landed models in bold)

*deep breath*

350z - Z33

Almera Tino - V10

Avenir - W11

Bluebird - U14

Cedric - Y31

Cefiro - A31

Cima - F50

Crew - K30

Elgrand - E50/E51

Laurel - C33

Leopard - Y31/Y32

Maxima - J30/J31

Murano - Z50

Navara - D22

Prairie - N21

Presage - U30/U31

Primera - P10/P12

Pulsar - N14

Rnessa - N30

Serena - C25

Silvia - S15

Skyline - R34/V35

Stagea - C34/M35

Sunny - G10/B12/B13

Wingroad - Y11

Xtrail - T30

well pod vs panel

more cold air to engine is better than limited air

but then u gota think about the engine heat that the pod sucks in as well

with the filters matching. we just know lol

theres no part numbers on the OEM filter i dont think

Thanks guys.

Did you just "know" which ones matched up or did you match a part number from the panel in the car itself?

Does a pod have any real performance increase over a panel? By real I mean worthwhile.

when the stock panel i pulled out was caked in black gunk i decided it was time for a new one.

my friends ordered me a k&n one for about 70 bucks, well worth it i say! i then went about fixing the intake to make it better.

when the stock panel i pulled out was caked in black gunk i decided it was time for a new one.

my friends ordered me a k&n one for about 70 bucks, well worth it i say! i then went about fixing the intake to make it better.

... and what exactly did you do to the intake?

Did you just run an extra CAI into the stock box and open up the stock funnel?

Or did you change the intake piping? If so... PICSORBAN!!

Does a pod have any real performance increase over a panel? By real I mean worthwhile.

Only if you make up a sealed airbox with sufficient cold air flowing in such as incorporating the OE air funnel and adding a CAI from the front bumper... but even then, you are still restricted by the intake piping.

I find it interesting that F1 use a panel filter... you would think that if a panel filter is good enough for an F1 car then the intake restriction is more to do with piping and CAI's than whether the filter is a pod or panel.

Edited by iamhe77

post-31456-1248222002_thumb.jpg

Zee picture! :D its nothing really just attacked it with a die grinder and saw as the opening for the intake was warped and closing up.

will look at a alloy intake pipe eventually. westside shall do a good job for me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...