Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I noticed tonight a red light flashed up on my dash and was just wondering what it was,

I didn't have time to look to see what it was, it just flashed once as I was hard under brakes in the wet

and the only thing I could think of was that it might be a light for abs the red light flashed up over

on the right side near where the oil and battery light is,

but mine is only a series 1.5 If thats what you call them its a late 95 model so has series 2 spoiler and such,

I didn't think these had abs can anyone tell me if series 1.5 had abs? how can you tell

Iv'e had my car all locked up before when braking so don't know? if its not abs light what else could it be?

any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277138-how-can-you-tell-if-you-got-abs/
Share on other sites

In answer to topic title, if you have ABS, the car won't like up like made under hard braking, and the pedal will pulsate under hard braking.

You can also check the lines running from your brake master cylinder and trace where they run, if they run into another unit before going to the calipers you have ABS. If they run straight to the calipers from the BMC, you do not have ABS. OR easier still, if you have two lines coming out of your BMC you have ABS, if you have three lines you do not have ABS.

i had an R33 for about 2 months (loaner) and a light flashed on every time i braked hard. turns out it was the oil pressure dropping........

but check oil level, brake fluid level and probably PS fluid level. its probably moving and the sensor thinks its too low as it all gets pushed to the front

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok cool, because I do have some OEM BMW options for light(er) wheels. 17x8.5 M Sport wheels are 11kg and I could put 255's on them. Maybe that's an initial test.
    • So, in the effort of pulling apart airboxes and testing enclosures to see if this aids in MAP loss at WOT I noticed: 1) The ducts up the OEM intercooler holes from the front bar help IAT drastically, whether the pod is shielded from the engine bay by an airbox missing a lid, or an airbox WITH a lid. Plus you get more induction sound without the lid. Having half the airbox (with no lid) acting as a barrier to the headers seems to help. 2) For shits and giggles I checked the TB. This was full pedal travel. This is actually full travel of the TB. Photos aren't perfect, but there was definitely an amount of play in it and it wasn't against the stop. After much swearing and adjusting the pedal, I realised that the cable is actually too long for the skyline pedal travel to fully articulate it. Having the pedal adjusted so WOT was actually hard open on WOT resulted in an idle of 3500rpm. As an aside, this was also the TPS registering at 3.1%. I removed the above to give the pedal enough travel to actually fully open the TB. I now get a satisfying 'thonk' on full open and full closed which you can hear pumping the pedal as it hits the TB stops (with the bonnet open and intake back on). Luckily for me, the screw screws into a raised metal boss under this plastic piece that is now acting as the new throttle stop. I've gained about 20mm (ish) of pedal travel and I can move it maybe a mm or two post open-thonk before it's hard against the stop. After all of this I did a bit of road tuning because a 102MM throttle is sensitive. The difference between holding an 950rpm idle and instantly stalling is about 0.4% of TPS movement. Will that help? I suppose it can't hurt. I set 'closed' point back to where it was, I can definitely feel the extra pedal travel that is needed to actually open the TB fully. But this morning I dropped the car off at Paint Jail again, so who knows when this will re-eventuate out to see if it helps with the top of the dyno hitting a ceiling.
    • Take heart that everyone else seems to have found a way. The OEM S1 indicators do slot in pretty firmly. It may simply be a case of having them sit slightly looser and nobody actually ever noticed this when attempting to remove a indicator from a JSAI bar :p
    • If the original NA ECU has a separate TCU then you are going to need to reroute wires that used to run between the trans and the TCU to the appropriate (1 to 1 equivalent) pins on the ECU. Other than that, it should work. Look up posts by @Kinkstaah on the subject.
×
×
  • Create New...