Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$2,200 is a bit steep. Last time I bought 4" 316 stainless it cost me $45-50 each bend. Exhausts would be 304 grade. I could get a twin 3" done for under $2,000.

where did u get that price?

yes ive been talking to duncan about becoming a sau nsw member - i have the forms, just need to pull my finger out

  • Replies 477
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

im not sure what they are, could be xforce or hks, how can i tell? could be hks to match the rest of the hks system, fark knows!

i called liverpool exhaust, custom 3inchfront pipes to merge into 4 inch all the way to rear is as follows:

- mild steel with ceramic coating (the whole thing) = 4k

- s/s (the whole thing) = $4400

- 4inch mild without front pipes = $2200 (westside is the same @ $2200 but its s/s)

he recommends i go mild steel with ceramic coating but to coat the entire thing is a bit of overkill, thoughts?

apparentely mild steel is more flexible for knocks & bumps, more suited for our great aust roads!

Well there would be a brand name stamped on it somewhere, i guess thats the only way to tell

Well, forget liverpool exhausts then, for 4k id rather do the gearbox (well, most of it)

No, it's definitely not my car - it only made 411rwkw on 16 psi a few years ago now

:(

Oh, and it's the Bells Line Of Rd Cruise, not Putty Rd (which is end of year). Same meet point though.

$2,200 is a bit steep. Last time I bought 4" 316 stainless it cost me $45-50 each bend. Exhausts would be 304 grade. I could get a twin 3" done for under $2,000.

You still have a skyline? lies!

Let me know if its a definate if you dont mind and ill probably bring the supra for a run

I'm bringing my rb30 to the cruise....marko if I can get a day off on saturday you can too. just bring the forms with you.

ok - i need to apply for leave with my wife & i 'should' be there...on a more serious note, my mother in law had a quadruple heart bypass on monday & she will be in ICU for another week, problem is that they dont allow any kids under 16 yrs of age in ICU which leads to the high possibility of daddy babysitting our 6mth old baby

lol...he just bought mine. Hehe...so Charlie...you planning to live on a diet of Smoked Stevo at your next track meet?

paul - sorry mate, i'll call u tomorrow

next project for my car is to improve braking power.

im running factory brakes & have been informed that these are quite good when setup right, so im getting the discs machined, replacing brake fluid with motul & running 'race brakes' pads all around (race brakes is the actual brand).

i had this setup in my previous gtr and was very happy with them (apart from when they squealed like crazy which sounds racey anyway lol & crap braking power when cold).

i definitely need to do this as its very dangerous with the power its running - currently up on stands & ive removed the calipers/discs & dropped the fluid

I run DS2500 pads on the front of my 32 (with 324mm rotors) and I've found them to be a really good street/track pad (not cheap though), they are a step down from the full blown race pads and as such work better at lower temps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...