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Water/meth Injection Kit.

Daboss

By Daboss,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted
There was a bloke on calais turbo forums who ran it pre turbo, and after a couple of years he was saying there was no noticeable wear on the blades....perhaps a billet compressor wheel could fix that over the standard type, if it were a problem. I believe he has a high pressure pump, along with a y piece valve that took boost pressure from the manifold and with the water pressure plus boost pressure it atomised the air even better then just straight water pressure....I believe this valve is easily bought, where from i dont know. I never looked into it much more.

But with it pre turbo, i believe he was able to squeese an extra 70-80hp out of it as it was flowing enough air as if it were a 800hp turbo, rather then the 700hp it actually was.

? dont get it - spray into the intake (after AFM) or drill into the compressor housing itself and spray on the blades?

**RB2530** Proficient

**RB2530**

Posted
Posted
? dont get it - spray into the intake (after AFM) or drill into the compressor housing itself and spray on the blades?

Drilling into the compressor wheel housing and spraying onto the blades would be BAD!!! Guaranteed damage to comp wheel....Its like this...The further along the blade you go from the turbo shaft, the faster that part of the blade is moving. Damage / wear on the blade is cause by the collision of the blade and the water droplet. So to minimise the collision you want as slow as possible blade velocity (towards centre of comp wheel and not the outer) and very small water droplets.

So very finely atomised water directed towards the centre of the compressor wheel is the best setup. Getting the atomisation right is the big thing..

Don't try it unless you really understand this as guaranteed you'll be after a new comp wheel and maybe more in no time...WI after compressor is safer IMO...

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

sorry i should have been more clear, spray towards the centre of shaft/wheel, not onto the blades for the reasons that rb2530 said.

Obviously its not right infront of the wheel, some distance would help the meth/water evaporate(atleast partially) before hitting the compressor.

But i do believe he used a water/meth mix in his setup.

I would only try it if i had a billet compressor wheel, like some of the turbos coming out of the states have....it would stand a far better chance, especially if not setup correctly.

WARLORD Veteran

WARLORD

Posted
Posted
So where's the best place to get a kit in Aus??

i want a proper kit not a home made job...

coolingmist this is the one ive got is very good.its in the us very fast postage.

varicooltrunkmountinstructions.pdf

Daboss Experienced

Daboss

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
coolingmist this is the one ive got is very good.its in the us very fast postage.

Yea coolingmist is also the kit I am using,"The Thread Starter" and I finally got it to work properly and I must say its excellent. When I got it to work properly I saw afr drop of .5 to a 1 point from my standard tune. So I was able to take out some more fuel and the car is even heaps more fun to drive. Plus I have that cushion of safety so I am more inclined to run it hard. I have an safc 2 to monitor and the highest knock reading I got from the idle reading of about 28 was 48 when I did the recall feature. So I consider that to be about a knock of 20. Now I want to try and increase my timing to get the full use out of the kit. I am still on stock turbo and injectors running about 20-22 degrees of timing at full boost of 12psi. I know it is car specific, but I was wondering what would be a decent amount of timing to increase it by? To "The Mafia" if he reads this I know you have alot of experience, or anyone with knowledge,I wanted to know how much timing should I be able to run with kit installed and a 50/50 mix. Also, if the tune has timing at 20-22 on wot what would increasing base timing do, for example if timing is at 10 on the ecu and I increase base timing by 5 degrees would that in turn increase that 10 on the ecu to 15? Also noone ever said what amount of oil to put into a 1.5 gallon kit and what kinda.

Edited by Daboss
axe s Experienced

axe s

Posted
Posted
coolingmist this is the one ive got is very good.its in the us very fast postage.

Yeah i was looking at on from coolingmist or full-throttle.com.au...

Is there an aus supplier for coolingmist??

Don't know whether to go for there trunk mount kit or custom tank... i think a tank with baffles and trap doors would be better for circuit work...

WARLORD Veteran

WARLORD

Posted
Posted
Yeah i was looking at on from coolingmist or full-throttle.com.au...

Is there an aus supplier for coolingmist??

Don't know whether to go for there trunk mount kit or custom tank... i think a tank with baffles and trap doors would be better for circuit work...

no oz supplier there tank is very good you dont need all the trap door ++++ the way the tank is its very good the pump is in the middle and the high sides help, the water is not moving to much in that tank and the pick up is at the bottom you would have to go thru 4 litters befor it hits the bottom of the tank and then there is 2 more litters

Parag0n Mentor

Parag0n

Posted
Posted

Plenty of rotaries I've seen are using WI alone or a WI / Meth mix, mainly because you will get detonation above 18-20psi on standard pump fuel (98 RON) in a wankel engine.

http://www.riceracing.com.au/water-injection.htm

Pete has made dozens of these kits and sells around 4-5 each week. I'd email him with any of your questions.

I've seen motors running Garret GT50's almost double their power with water injection alone, simply because of the amount of boost you will be able to pump through the engine without risk of detonation compared to a standard pump fuel mixture.

**RB2530** Proficient

**RB2530**

Posted
Posted
Yea coolingmist is also the kit I am using,"The Thread Starter" and I finally got it to work properly and I must say its excellent. When I got it to work properly I saw afr drop of .5 to a 1 point from my standard tune. So I was able to take out some more fuel and the car is even heaps more fun to drive. Plus I have that cushion of safety so I am more inclined to run it hard. I have an safc 2 to monitor and the highest knock reading I got from the idle reading of about 28 was 48 when I did the recall feature. So I consider that to be about a knock of 20. Now I want to try and increase my timing to get the full use out of the kit. I am still on stock turbo and injectors running about 20-22 degrees of timing at full boost of 12psi. I know it is car specific, but I was wondering what would be a decent amount of timing to increase it by? To "The Mafia" if he reads this I know you have alot of experience, or anyone with knowledge,I wanted to know how much timing should I be able to run with kit installed and a 50/50 mix. Also, if the tune has timing at 20-22 on wot what would increasing base timing do, for example if timing is at 10 on the ecu and I increase base timing by 5 degrees would that in turn increase that 10 on the ecu to 15? Also noone ever said what amount of oil to put into a 1.5 gallon kit and what kinda.

Apologies in advance if I am off the mark here but I detect some inuendo this post?? You ask simple questions about complicated issues and expect simple answers??

If you substitute your actual numbers (water / methanol flow rate) into my way of approximating what your drop in afr may be you will find I am actually pretty close to the mark...

I 'may' have some ideas about how much extra timing you can run...But since you are the 'Thread starter' I will leave it to you to find 'someone with knowledge'

GOOD LUCK!!!

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