Jump to content
SAU Community

Annoying Clicking Noise In The Dash On Startup

555kkk

By 555kkk,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

555kkk Experienced

555kkk

Posted
Posted

when you turn the ignition to on , i can hear a clicking noise under the dash . it clicks about 5 to 10 times and then nothing. very annoying

pulled plastic dash surround off and put my hand into a/c unit i can feel the clicking through the plastic the noise is just around this area.

the clicking seemed to start after i had a cd player in the car .

buckets Community Regular

buckets

Posted
Posted
when you turn the ignition to on , i can hear a clicking noise under the dash . it clicks about 5 to 10 times and then nothing. very annoying

pulled plastic dash surround off and put my hand into a/c unit i can feel the clicking through the plastic the noise is just around this area.

the clicking seemed to start after i had a cd player in the car .

Hey mate,

If the clicking is comming from the air con vents when you turn your key to "acc" or start up the car its just the vents opening.

Mine does that on start up, goes away, and then if i put the air con on and have it on feet, and then move it to body, it clicks.

Not a real big problem just another thing comming in most skylines.

A mates 33 and another mates 34 all do the same.

555kkk Experienced

555kkk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hey mate,

If the clicking is comming from the air con vents when you turn your key to "acc" or start up the car its just the vents opening.

Mine does that on start up, goes away, and then if i put the air con on and have it on feet, and then move it to body, it clicks.

Not a real big problem just another thing comming in most skylines.

A mates 33 and another mates 34 all do the same.

how do i fix it ? do you know what it is ?

AFTDRK Rising Star

AFTDRK

Posted
Posted

it is a little bit annoying, always having passengers ask "whats that sound?"

ive had two series 2 R33's and both did not have the problem initially..

only developed a few months after owning them in both cars :laugh:

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted

If it goes on for 10-15 seconds you will find that it is a stripped plastic cog on the hot/cold blend door, theres a few threads on it around, have to pull the whole dash pad off to fix it.

Jack88 Experienced

Jack88

Posted
Posted
If it goes on for 10-15 seconds you will find that it is a stripped plastic cog on the hot/cold blend door, theres a few threads on it around, have to pull the whole dash pad off to fix it.

and we have a weaner. lol but seriously your correct. however i only know of it happening in 33's.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

do we have any links to posts that give a detailed descripiton of fixing the problem? Ive heard jus getting the whole motor from a wrecked skyline (just the little motor that operates the gear, with the gear attatched) will fix it but i there any other way like just replacing the cog?

Mines been doing it for a while, i need a new dash so can do both at once if i can get a correct fix :thumbsup:

Nissan want between 250 and 400 for the motor (couldnt tell which one it was from the fast diagrams) its a bit to much just for that

Anyway if theres a post about fixing it then someone please link it i here, ive searched a couple of times but never really found much more then whats already been said here

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...