Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

spent 1200 on a second hand rb20 450 getting installed, took a while, had some outher unrelated car issues, finally got running but blowing smoke (cracked ring/ring landing), so called up rolins and apparentally i only get a 1 month warrenty so they told me to go shove it. it obviously had a cracked ring when i bought it, bloody dodgy rolins. now i need to get it fixed i have been quoted $2600 (or $5500 with pistons) by dereck at ad shine/asr motorsport on the gold coast. i need help. better mechanic would great preferably one would have been on to it enough to do a comp test on a second handy before installing it. and that price is ****, can anyone help, plz at wits end. jonno

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278440-rolins-imports-dodgy-engines/
Share on other sites

how far were you out of 1 month warranty?

also did they state that it was comp tested and running fine?

if so you should be able to get a refund/new motor, take it to consumer affairs, you bought something that was advertised as running/good cond but you didnt get what you paid for.

Screw the repair quotes, why would you pay $2600 to get it repaired when you could purchase a whole half cut for less than that?

Is the smoke definitely the engine and not the seals in the turbo gone?

how far were you out of 1 month warranty?

also did they state that it was comp tested and running fine?

if so you should be able to get a refund/new motor, take it to consumer affairs, you bought something that was advertised as running/good cond but you didnt get what you paid for.

+1 for consumer affairs, get the whole story from them and if you have genuinly been messed about take it to consumer affairs and leave it with them to sort out.

it was a few weeks outside of warranty so there is nothing i can do. they say the engine was fine when they sold it to me, but it wasn't. okay now that we know that rolin's are dodgy a-holes, should i get a nother second handy intalled or am i running the risk of the same thing again. any experiences would be great, on the gold coast so a good engine importer would be great would probably get them to install it if possible. cheers jonno

only running on the engine:- pod, 3'zorst turb back, slighty larger highflow turbs, frount mount, foward facing plennum, bov.

If your planning on keeping it then it might be worth spending the extra to get it rebuilt, if you put in another second hand engine you have no way of knowing what the previous owner did with it, could be running fine when you put it in but might also die in 6 months, if you get your motor rebuilt you knwo where you stand.

I would see consumer affairs, see if you can find other people on here with doggy deals from Rolin if you get together might have a better chance on getting warranty on that engine.

You should ask (if you buy another engine) is have they done a leak down test and compression test, ask them to do it in front of you if you can. asian auto spares seem happy to do these tests. BMI are another

good place for engines, stay away from ALL AUTOMOTIVE IMPORT PARTS (AAIP) or ALL JAP or nissan wreckers at coopers plains - prices are high quality and brain power is low !

asian auto spares seem happy to do these tests. BMI are another good place for engines.

so these guys are good for engines anywhere else i should try near or on the gold coast (brisvagas, tweed etc)

cauz if it gonna cost $5k to rebuild i am just gonna put another engine in for $1.6K-1.8K

can anyone recommend some where to get rebuilt on the coast. cheers for any and all help, jonno

it was a few weeks outside of warranty so there is nothing i can do.

You're being naive. Just because that is what they are telling you doesnt mean that its true. They cant avoid the protections available under the law just because they said you have a 1 month warrantee. Contact your state department of Fair Trading if you want these shitheads to be held accountable. The Fair Trading laws are quite strict.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...