Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 86
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i'll give you a week before that bar is ripped off

This is not a daily driver so will last longer than a week. I am more worried about the kerbs at the track or a spin to the infield. LOL

hey racegtst

thats the first time iv seen an r33 gtst with r32 indicators

I bought this bar as is and only painted it. Something different i say.

I think that i may end up selling this bar to get a GTR like bar that is not as low.

My drive is fairly steep but there was no scapring at all going into the garage forwards or backwards.

The coilovers will be coming out in the next few weeks and i will be going a king spring and bilstein setup which also raise the ride height of the car a little bit.

  • 3 weeks later...

Before (probably just a few days after I picked it up), parked next to my old car, which my sister drove until she got a Mazda3. Check out the SkylinesDownUnder sticker on the 'Rolla - I'm olde-schoole, baby! :thumbsup:

Theoldandthenew002.jpg

Taken by Wil at our SAU-NSW photoshoot day. This photoshoot was published in HPI magazine, and despite my car being the only Stagea there, it wasn't included... :) The car was digitally lowered and shot was cleaned up before being posted up by Wil - I love how good he's made it look considering how standard it still was!

CRW_2456_800web.jpg

Shitty camera-phone pic just after the old man and I had spent some time installing the Sydneykid kit (Whiteline/Bilstein package)

Slammed.jpg

Side shot:

Wagon001.jpg

Most recently, just after I put some V35 wheels on it.

NewWheels4.jpg

NewWheels2.jpg

NewWheels1.jpg

Mine when purchased

post-13913-1247906055_thumb.jpg

at the panel shop

post-13913-1247906146_thumb.jpg

Today after picking it up from the panel shop (still have to fit the number plate)

post-13913-1247906380_thumb.jpg post-13913-1247906518_thumb.jpg

I would just leave it parked at the panel beaters dude... with a front bar that low its gonna be back there in a day anyway

Nope sadly its the correct way.

After the crash insurance wrote it off, parts were just so dear.

Ummm I was cruising through a green light and BAM, lady turned in front of me. She didnt have a green arrow, but thought she could go anyway.

End of the 34 :D

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...