Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 86
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

before, completely standard (save for the tint) s14a

IMG_1486.jpg

IMG_1484.jpg

then, a set of wheels and a cat back.

IMG_1496.jpg

now a few dollars later.

IMG_3157.jpg

IMG_3156.jpg

zenki navan skirts and pods, kouki spoiler, low offset work mesh wheels, turbo, 'zaust, cooler(s), blah blah blah.

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...
Nice!!

Hey, I think I remember you talking about wanting to get a 32GTR somewhere in some thread (but I may be confusing you with some1 else).

If not, how long you had it man? Looks sweet! Any mods?

Cheers mate

hmm didnt write any threads about wanting one, but I almost bought your old dark grey 32gtst years ago when it was in Tassie, twas very clean I remember.

I think I asked you for pictures of it etc.

Anyway I bit the bullet in the end and waited it out to get a GTR, the car landed Dec last year stock as shown apart from catback and have so far done

Cusco front/rear strut braces

Cusco front/rear sway bars

Lowered on Teins

and XD9s

Cheers mate

hmm didnt write any threads about wanting one, but I almost bought your old dark grey 32gtst years ago when it was in Tassie, twas very clean I remember.

I think I asked you for pictures of it etc.

Ahhh, thats right, i remember now. Yeah I always had a soft spot for that car.

Anyway I bit the bullet in the end and waited it out to get a GTR, the car landed Dec last year stock as shown apart from catback and have so far done

Cusco front/rear strut braces

Cusco front/rear sway bars

Lowered on Teins

and XD9s

Very nice.. Very similar to mine - I've also got Tein Super-street's, Work XT7's, HKS underbody chassis kit, 5Zigen exhaust and thats about it. I don't have any immediate plans to do any more to it cause I like it as it is. But if I had a spare $15k lying around then forged internals and gt-ss turbo's would be nice :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...