Jump to content
SAU Community

Intercooler Pipes Not Staying On Under Hard Driving.

daslingdale
 Share

Recommended Posts

daslingdale Collaborator

daslingdale

Posted
Posted

Hey

Just fitted a JJR Stealth Front Mount Intercooler. I haven't upped the boost or anything since I don't have a boost controller.

Problem is that everytime it hits the higher boost under hard acceleration these pipes blow out because of the high pressure.

When fitting this intercooler did anyone upgrade the clamps on that piping? Or replace those metal pipes with silicone ones?

I believe they are coming off because the pipes don't directly line up without slightly forcing them to. And there is no leeway in the piping being metal so all of the stress from the pressure is being put on the clamps.

Better clamps might just do but if I could replace those pipes with silicone ones it would be much better I reckon.

I couldn't find any direct replacement pipes in silicone. Does anyone know where I can get some? Or do I need to cut my own?

Cheers.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

I fit one of these last week to an R33 and they aren't a direct fit. I spoke with JJ about it and they said they fit more to 34's than 33's and don't have a problem. The intercooler sits 1 inch over towards the drivers side so what you need to do is cut the mount on the top and weld it back on 1 inch over and then cut 1 inch out of the longer pipe before the first bend. This not only centralises the intercooler but it also makes the shorter pipe better able to go directly into the factory one in the engine bay. Previously it went in at an angle. After moving the intercooler across, it went in no problems.

As stated above, also make sure all the pipes are pushed into the factory rubber bends enough. If they aren't pushed in enough, they will continue to blow out.

daslingdale Collaborator

daslingdale

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I fit one of these last week to an R33 and they aren't a direct fit. I spoke with JJ about it and they said they fit more to 34's than 33's and don't have a problem. The intercooler sits 1 inch over towards the drivers side so what you need to do is cut the mount on the top and weld it back on 1 inch over and then cut 1 inch out of the longer pipe before the first bend. This not only centralises the intercooler but it also makes the shorter pipe better able to go directly into the factory one in the engine bay. Previously it went in at an angle. After moving the intercooler across, it went in no problems.

As stated above, also make sure all the pipes are pushed into the factory rubber bends enough. If they aren't pushed in enough, they will continue to blow out.

Ah that explains everything. I was scratching my head wondering how the hell they could have designed this system as a bolt on when half of the mounts don't even line up to the car. Like why design a system for a car to not line up with that car if you know what I mean? Lol.

But yeah we already did all of that. The top mount is cable tied just to the right of the central pillar on the front so the bottom mounts line up with the holes on the chassis. That way also the pipes can actually connect properly. The mounting of the actual intercooler was done correctly.

But I might be able to tighten up the clamps better. So I will give that a try.

If I can find some silicon pipes that replace those black metal ones then I would upgrade them regardless.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
Ah that explains everything. I was scratching my head wondering how the hell they could have designed this system as a bolt on when half of the mounts don't even line up to the car. Like why design a system for a car to not line up with that car if you know what I mean? Lol.

But yeah we already did all of that. The top mount is cable tied just to the right of the central pillar on the front so the bottom mounts line up with the holes on the chassis. That way also the pipes can actually connect properly. The mounting of the actual intercooler was done correctly.

But I might be able to tighten up the clamps better. So I will give that a try.

If I can find some silicon pipes that replace those black metal ones then I would upgrade them regardless.

Which one's are blowing off exactly?

The metal black one from the turbo or the longer one into the engine?

Or the 90 degree rubber bend on the end of those pipes?

Or the new pipes that came with the kit?

If you didn't cut 1 inch out of the long pipe then it won't fit. I assume you did as it doesn't go together without doing so.

geraus Mentor

geraus

Posted
Posted

Hmm thats odd... im doing 240kws with the JJ cooler runing at 16-17psi and no problems there..... You need to upgrade you clamps! get the NORMA ones..... thats what im using... i full give it to hard and never pops of!

daslingdale Collaborator

daslingdale

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah looks like new clamps and ultra tightening them is the way to go.

I can't remember what size the clamps were. Anyone know? I don't have a decent measuring device. Lol

Might just grab some JJR ones since they are fairly cheap and look like the ones that came with the intercooler kit. And those ones are holding up sweet.

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted
Yeah looks like new clamps and ultra tightening them is the way to go.

I can't remember what size the clamps were. Anyone know? I don't have a decent measuring device. Lol

Might just grab some JJR ones since they are fairly cheap and look like the ones that came with the intercooler kit. And those ones are holding up sweet.

I also had this problem so i tightened the clamps like said before with a ratchet and also welded a lip to the cooler pipes and bolted somewhere to the body.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

dont tighten the clamps too tight - they will chew out the side of the hose.

A decent clamp, with a decent lip and you wont have a problem

The pipe lip/bump is as important as the clamp if not more-so, i ran stock RB25 clamps over 25psi with lipped piping.

daslingdale Collaborator

daslingdale

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Which one's are blowing off exactly?

The metal black one from the turbo or the longer one into the engine?

Or the 90 degree rubber bend on the end of those pipes?

Or the new pipes that came with the kit?

If you didn't cut 1 inch out of the long pipe then it won't fit. I assume you did as it doesn't go together without doing so.

First time it was the smaller one going to the turbo.

Second time it was the larger one and it blew off the elbow.

They are all original pipes with original clamps. The aftermarket pipes that came with the kit are holding up well so far.

daslingdale Collaborator

daslingdale

Posted
  • Author
Posted
dont tighten the clamps too tight - they will chew out the side of the hose.

A decent clamp, with a decent lip and you wont have a problem

The pipe lip/bump is as important as the clamp if not more-so, i ran stock RB25 clamps over 25psi with lipped piping.

When you say "lip" you mean make a lip on the pipes that are blowing off where it joins the the joiners?

daslingdale Collaborator

daslingdale

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What boost are you running? If the stock hoses are blowing off, then there is an issue.

I am not sure. Don't have a gauge or controller. But it doesn't seem to be overboosting or anything.

I really should get a gauge.

TurboX Mentor

TurboX

Posted
Posted

One trick I used to stop clamps blowing off my I/C SS Pipes was to use decent clamps but also get a steel tang srew driver and put the sharp end inside the pipe about 5mm and support it on something maleable and give it a hit which would put a neat protrusion into where the rubber hose slides over but let the clamp grip it when tightened.

Not sure if that make sense but you get the idea.

daslingdale Collaborator

daslingdale

Posted
  • Author
Posted
One trick I used to stop clamps blowing off my I/C SS Pipes was to use decent clamps but also get a steel tang srew driver and put the sharp end inside the pipe about 5mm and support it on something maleable and give it a hit which would put a neat protrusion into where the rubber hose slides over but let the clamp grip it when tightened.

Not sure if that make sense but you get the idea.

Yeah I will give that a go. I will be fiddling with these pipes all Saturday that is for sure.

TriniGT Experienced

TriniGT

Posted
Posted

I always put some tac welding on four points around the pipe once it does not have that sealing lip and it never comes out. Next thing I also do is use hair spray on the pipe right before putting on the hose Once that stuff gets on it won't come off and seals well as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By PranK · Posted

      This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • soviet_merlin
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Duncan
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Duncan · Posted

      Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...