Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-44326-1247473053_thumb.jpgpost-44326-1247473053_thumb.jpgThought I'd share this little project incase anyone else was thinking of doing it also.

The diff is a 3.9 R200 LSD originally out of a DR30. The diff centre is all I obtained initially as I was under the impression the R180 flange and halfshafts would suffice.

After having a hard long look at it once it arrived I was unsure about what I was embarking on.

A phone call to Stewart Wilkinsons, Datsport and a friend who races and builds Z cars confirmed the obvious.

The R180 has a single retaining bolt to hold the halfshaft inside the diff.

The R200 has a flange (seperate item to the halfshaft) that is held in place with the use of a clip,when the flange is pushed into the diff it locks itself into a purpose made groove.

As you can see in the pics the half shafts are totally different . Although the R180 flange end may fit into the spline cavity, there is no way of securing it in place.

The replacement flange and halfshaft were sourced from a 260Z R200 diff.

All that is required now is some changes to the moustache bar.

post-44326-1247473229_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278979-diff-conversion/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sorry! But no is the simple answer. The R200 is larger in diameter by about 20mm and therefore the moustache bar across the flats is about 10mm further back to accomodate this. Stewart Wilkins will make you one for about $100.00

Cheers, D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278979-diff-conversion/#findComment-4713651
Share on other sites

D, I just spoke to SWM and they'll charge me $250 for a new moustache bar.

So let's see now $1200 for the diff

$ 90 for freight

$ 360 for 260Z halfshafts( and that was mates rates) SWM would have been $470

$ 250 for moustache bar ( if SWM) fabricated it for me

$ 50 for posting the M-Bar

So this could all add up to about 2 G, not really that cheap. Thankfully I should be able to get a M-Bar made at work for about a 5th of that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278979-diff-conversion/#findComment-4714042
Share on other sites

i dont want to seem like im advertising but if you are not in a rush i suggest you check out importmonster.

i got a moustache bar for like 10 bucks and new shafts for around 200. i bought a nismo 2.0way lsd for another 200.

i managed to find a r200 vlsd for 290 from a wrecker in ringwood. diff guy charged me $100 to fit the center to the

diff housing.

so if you shop around you can build it for way under 1k.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278979-diff-conversion/#findComment-4714475
Share on other sites

[Thanks for making me feel better Nick, LOL. Don't Import Monster charge heaps for getting it to ya?

I've used their calculation thingy and it just seems way too much sometimes. What price have you been charged and for what item bought to your door?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278979-diff-conversion/#findComment-4714677
Share on other sites

my stovetops invoice:

Item Cost: 18,000¥

Japanese Domestic Freight: 4,000¥

Import Monster Commission: 3,600¥

EMS Freight: 14,000¥

Total Japan Costs: 39,600¥

Exchange Rate: $1AUD buys: 69¥

Australian Domestic Freight: N/A

Sub Total: $573.91

GST: $57.39

Total: $631.30

i used the estimator but i actually over estimated the weight so the adjusted it for me and refunded the difference to my account.

i thought it was reasonable. considering they go into the effort of arranging pick-up/sending to their warehouse. then packing it and sending it to your door. and the convenience of having an aussie bunch of lads in the thick of Japanese parts. and there's so many part available for our cars!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278979-diff-conversion/#findComment-4714744
Share on other sites

D, I just spoke to SWM and they'll charge me $250 for a new moustache bar.

So let's see now $1200 for the diff

$ 90 for freight

$ 360 for 260Z halfshafts( and that was mates rates) SWM would have been $470

$ 250 for moustache bar ( if SWM) fabricated it for me

$ 50 for posting the M-Bar

So this could all add up to about 2 G, not really that cheap. Thankfully I should be able to get a M-Bar made at work for about a 5th of that.

I have some drawings or specs of the R200 Moustache Bar if you need them, but I warn you, they are for an R30. Does the C210 have the same, or offset like the Zed cars do?

$250.00 is a bit steep I think, particularly when it's mild steel, not spring steel (like leaf springs) as I would prefer.

Cheers, D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278979-diff-conversion/#findComment-4714822
Share on other sites

[Thanks for making me feel better Nick, LOL. Don't Import Monster charge heaps for getting it to ya?

I've used their calculation thingy and it just seems way too much sometimes. What price have you been charged and for what item bought to your door?

i just noticed that you are from wa. i had the luxury of being able to use the container for freight and picking up the items myself. heavy items like cv's and diff centres wouldnt be cheap to send to perth. i cant remember %100 how much i was charged for shipping as it was a while ago now..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278979-diff-conversion/#findComment-4715149
Share on other sites

Yeah, it has it's setbacks living here in the West. Import monster send their stuff to the east, and would'nt send directly to me. I've seen many parts I'd like to have snavelled, but the freight put me right off.

I'm getting the moustache bar done for free by the fitters at work. A

mate who works alongside them is picking it up this avo and taking it in for adjustments.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278979-diff-conversion/#findComment-4716174
Share on other sites

I climbed under my car yesterday to have a look and noticed something odd. I purchased a a late model r180 Subaru LSD centre, which is a flange and circlip type, and yet I am still using my original Datsun halfshafts, which are not the circlip type. The original Datsun bolt is holding the halfshafts in place.

There are two things I can think of:

1. The fellas at Jack MacNamurra diffs have a clever way of adapting Datsun halfshafts to a Subaru diff centre without the use of Subi flanges or making hybrid half shafts etc.

2. They kept the Subaru limited diff centre for themselves and gave me back a the original Datsun open-wheel diff!

Hopefully its the former.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278979-diff-conversion/#findComment-4717280
Share on other sites

Drew, you should take a couple of pics and post'em. I'm sure it would be of interest to many.

I'm left with 2 maybe 3 options with my moustache bar, so if you can help it would be appreciated.

Have a new one made.

Change mounts( bolted to the car) the moustache bar attaches too. Shift the bolts back 20mm buy making new plates.

Or if the R30 or Dr30 bar is close to my needs, I'll use one of these.( Really need a pic or 2 of these bars).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278979-diff-conversion/#findComment-4717422
Share on other sites

I climbed under my car yesterday to have a look and noticed something odd. I purchased a a late model r180 Subaru LSD centre, which is a flange and circlip type, and yet I am still using my original Datsun halfshafts, which are not the circlip type. The original Datsun bolt is holding the halfshafts in place.

There are two things I can think of:

1. The fellas at Jack MacNamurra diffs have a clever way of adapting Datsun halfshafts to a Subaru diff centre without the use of Subi flanges or making hybrid half shafts etc.

2. They kept the Subaru limited diff centre for themselves and gave me back a the original Datsun open-wheel diff!

Hopefully its the former.

Easy way to find out?

Jack up the rear end and turn the wheels. If only one turns you have a single spinner.

Cheers, D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278979-diff-conversion/#findComment-4718454
Share on other sites

Hi D, Originally I was wanting to get it in quickly, now I'd be happy to have it in within a month. You got somethin on your mind, know where one happens to be lying idle by chance or you've got 2 jacks, a balaclava and a dark night lined up?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278979-diff-conversion/#findComment-4718515
Share on other sites

Hi D, You got somethin on your mind, know where one happens to be lying idle by chance

Funny you mention this!

I just happen to have one I can put my hands on as I type this message.

It's called Ghostrider Spares lol

But seriously, I need to use it as a template for the late model R230 style finned diff rear covers. As you're in need of something fairly quickly, I'll try to get mine made or at least ordered next week, Tuesday or Wednesday when I'm off next. I want mine made from leaf spring type material, as opposed to SWR's mild steel.

If you can wait a couple of weeks it will probably be for sale?

Cheers, D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278979-diff-conversion/#findComment-4719008
Share on other sites

Is this going to be a "straight bolt in" job, gee I hate using that term. So does this prized piece of steel fit my requirements, ie the 2 main bolt holes are the same as mine, but the bar is 20mm shorter as such, the R200 being that much longer. Yes I'll wait if this eets my need without further alteration. Cheers Ricky

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278979-diff-conversion/#findComment-4719065
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
    • Hmmm, interesting. Makes me wonder whether there is bias as well. It's the cheapest fuel, so it is used for all kinds of ill-maintained shitboxes which are bound to have issues regardless. Nicer cars tend to require higher octane rated fuel and can't use it anyway. FWIW, the official NSW E10 facts page is decent. 
×
×
  • Create New...