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i got a 33 turbo on my 32 with rb20det, external gate, screamer, fmic and exhaust,

running 1 bar atm and it seems to be fine, any less and its a slug, i was thinking about changing the springs to run 17ps (1.15bar)

ive run this much with my avcr and it seems fine, any experiences with this much boost?

I had mine at around 19 psi for a few months knowing it wasnt to good runs at 12 now and still hasnt blown

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just run it till it blows.

i have r33 stock turbo on rb25 14psi but then i dont really mind if the turbo goes.

been drift days limiter bashing 3rd.

holds up fine soo far also when it does get driven around the place it doesnt exactly have it easy.

been like it for over a year no signs of it going.... wanted an excuse to upgrade but hasnt given up yet.

Pray when it lets go that it does not kill your motor...

Two Vic people have had motor's die from the turbine wheel letting go, and then the comp wheel shattering as a result and ending up going through the cooler and destroying pistons...

Plenty of people however have killed turbos, no engine deaths... so its not as common as the RB26 issues with turbo failurs

But then if you can afford the rebuild who cares? :banana:

If you can't however - you should really assess the risk.

what part of the turbo fails from running high boost on the stock ceramic wheeled turbos?

i've been pushing 1 bar through the stock rb20 turbo for a good 50000ks might turn it up to 1.1-1.15 after reading this thread :banana:

You answered your own question turbine = ceramic. That's the failure point.

I wasn't being a hero, I used to have a 180 with a RB20DET with a R33 S1 strapped to it, ran 1 bar for around 6 months, guess what? the turbo died, spat out oil so I bought another one, strap it on, ran it at 1 bar and sold the car, still going hard till now

really depends how worn the turbo is in the first place.

I wasn't being rude, you just posted up an ignorant question without searching anything.. it's like SAU is turning into NS...

btw, that wasn't my old car, it's actually just a 180SX with RB20DET in it.

You should be posting up how many k's each turbo has done. Nissan used Silicone Nitride in it's turbines which has no worries with strength under 'hi-temp' conditions regardless of hearsay... unless your talking over 1500* The main problem is age.

I believe silicon nitride does not like thermal shock, they have a lifespan in such conditions and to think otherwise may cost you a re-build. I think Nissans stated period of renewal 60,000k's? Unsure. How many k's your stock turbo's have done? i Wonder...

tick tick tick.

As for shaft speed. Obviously the greater capacity an engine the greater the shaft RPM needed to produce the same boost

(Keeping all other variables constant between engines, turbo, intercooler etc etc)

We have a tuner over here in perth that recommends less boost and MORE TIMING on RB engines.

Thats all you need to make power according to this so called expert.

Apart from that this thread is actually a good read.

Some people take things way to seriously

Edited by nismor32gtst

I had my skyline for about 3 years, RB20 with s2 r33 turbo. I ran 0.9 bar on it a few times, but usually 0.8 and it made 173rwkw). Didn't know the history of the turbo before that.

I dont know the true failure mode, but I 'presume' that the rear wheel died first, and then put the compressor wheel into the housing (only took one chip out of the compressor wheel though, I still have it sitting on my desk). Turned at an intersection and it let go in 1st gear at about 4500rpm or so, as it was building boost. (was running 0.8bar), with EBC.

The motor was fine, didn't find any bits of plastic in the cooler pipes. Replaced the turbo with a s1 r33 turbo, noticed a little more lag.

I guess the point is, the r33 turbo can die, and when and how it happens can be random and be different from car to car.

Fixxxer

my mate had a s2 r33 turbo running the 20 actuator on it for boost to come on quicker coz of the spring rate compared to the 7psi spring in the 33 actuators - ran 10psi and boosted it to 14 when he wanted to have fun.

reckons you wouldn't run it for too long on more pound than that if you wanted the turbo to last for a while.

standard 33 turbos aren't meant to run much more than 14psi but by all means can't hurt to boost it more if its working for you it just won't last as long :(

Stock R33 turbo's actually start loosing power after about 14psi....14psi is the maximum i would go on a stocko r33 turbo as its not just that more boost = more power....its also the efficiency of that turbo...i am running a stock turbo on my RB25 (i know) on 12psi for the last 2 years....and its still going strong.....and it cops it most of the time

As Allen has already said, i ran 18psi with a stock turbo when i had the rb20 in and it was fine.

When i had the cheap manual boost control in before changing over to a blitz electronic bc, boost didnt come on as strong.

I totally recommend you go with a electronic boost controller if you crank the boost higher than std. I found that going with the electronic bc, gave better boost without spikes happening. You can change all sorts of settings to get a better response.

Im suprised it never went bang considering i use to give it a hard time. I think you will be oright! :D

When I first got my stock-as-a-rock S2 R33 in 2004, I boosted it up to 14psi, thrashed the daylights out of it as I was looking really hard for an excuse to fit the newly built forged RB25/30 that was in the shed waiting to go in, she lasted about 4 months (which was 3 months and 2 weeks longer than I expected it to last) before the turbine wheel snapped off clean.....enough said.

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