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Abs Removal - Question About Piping And Master

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Hello, I am currently considering removing the ABS module from my R32 GTS4. The reasons that I would like to do this are

1. It will remove another item from my engine bay – I am on a mission to make it an area of business in there

2. Save the 5.5kg or so of weight (as weighed by djr81)

3. Improve the feel of my brakes (refer the soft braking threads)

There is one issue that I would like confirmed if possible; can I use a two-hole master cylinder and use a t-piece to connect the front left and front right brakes to the front brakes outlet of the master cylinder? I have attached a before and afetr picture to help with my description.

I am aware that non-abs (3-hole) master cylinders are available, however I would like to avoid changing master cylinders to

1. save the time of sourcing a generally hard to find item

2. save confusion around bore sizes and their effectiveness and identification

3. save the cost of replacing my master cylinder

For reference (and in case someone has a strong alternative opinion) there was some discussion in previous threads claiming that ATTESSA would stop working if the ABS module was removed. I tested this by unplugging my ABS module. With my ABS unplugged the ATTESSA worked fine.

Also, for other people researching the topic, I have listed all of the current ABS removal-related threads below with a brief synopsis.

PIPING

This is the tread where djr81 states the weight of the unit; it also has a picture of the differences (ABS and non-ABS) workshop manual as posted by huddy.

Removing Abs From My R32 Skyline

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...&hl=removal

In this thread huddy said that he had removed the abs in his Cefiro showing a diagram with the non-abs three port master cylinder

Removing Abs from My R32 Skyline

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...&hl=removal

In this thread choku dori had the same idea as me; though this thread remained inconclusive

R32 Gtst Abs Removel, Completely get rid of ABS

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=removal

In this thread MSRB26 said that he / she had removed the ABS and replaced the lines with no issues at all but did not mention what master cylinder was used.

R33 ABS Removal

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=removal

ATTESSA

This thread discussed the impact of removing the ABS on ATTESSA. Rowdyr32 believed that it shouldn’t have an impact; though this thread seemed inconclusive.

R32 Gtr Abs Removal, yes an other thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=removal

DiRTgarage was quite insistant in this thread that removing ABS would have no affect on the ATTESSA in an R32 GTR in this thread

Abs Removal On Bnr32, complete instructions plz !

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ab...&hl=removal

In this thread there was a lot of discussion about the ABS and ATTESSA being electronically linked; however by the end of the thread it seemed that they were not at all.

4wd Not Working After Abs Removal, R32 GTR

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/4w...TTESA&st=20

GENERAL

This thread was generally inconclusive – it seemed that no-one had performed the work.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=removal

This topic was a general query regarding what was required on huddy’s Cefiro but was inconclusive.

Abs Removal, how to?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ab...&hl=removal

This thread was inconclusive with Baz putting a rather negative slant on the topic of ABS removal. This is inconclusive as many other people have said it is viable.

Abs removal or not ????

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ab...&hl=removal

post-28712-1247785899_thumb.jpg

_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted

My HCR32 has no ABS. Why not ask me nicely for my VIN, FAST it, get the part number for the booster/master, and do it that way?

Do it once, do it right. Surely the factory method is better than any backyard bypass!

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RB_Ryan; I might just take you up on that offer; though I would like to get people's opinion on the t-piece first. If all the ABS module is doing is working as a t-piece; then $5 gets your ABS module out of the car rather than $400-$750 in buying a new master cylinder from Nissan (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Brake-Master-Cylinder-Reb-t274032.html&hl=master) or hunting down a non-ABS cylinder second hand.

I have noticed that this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...tml&hl=bias it talks about the use of a t-piece. I am not sure if this helps provide opinion.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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For anyone who is interested in this topic; the non abs pipe that runs from the master cylinder to the passenger-side wheel arch is Nissan part number 4624201U10 and costs $33.78 including GST. I don't have the price and part number for the other two, but I understand that they are between $25 and $30 each.

  • 4 months later...
NismoSTune Community Regular

NismoSTune

Posted
Posted
For anyone who is interested in this topic; the non abs pipe that runs from the master cylinder to the passenger-side wheel arch is Nissan part number 4624201U10 and costs $33.78 including GST. I don't have the price and part number for the other two, but I understand that they are between $25 and $30 each.

So what did you do? None of these links you posted have conclusions, much like this one now. Did you simply buy the pipe you mention and T it into the front line of your 2 line GTR BMC?

  • 2 weeks later...
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I ended up buying second hand pipes and a non-ABS BM44 master cylinder. The reason I did this was because it all came at a good price.

The master cylinder that I had before was an ABS BM55. The BM44 is noticably longer; it also feels like alot less pressure is required to brake (I assume taht this is a result of the reduced ore).

Overall, I am happy with the change as the job itself was very easy and the removal of the ABS module saved alot of space in my engine bay. Also, I reckon that it weighs about 10kg (I will weigh it properly though for the purpose of this discussion).

At this point I am not sure if I am happy. I would prefer a shorter and firmer brake pedal (but I didn't really have a good brake pedal before). Maybe I will see someone about having my BM55 master cylinder modified to fit 3 outlets. Maybe I will look at a master cylinder with-out a proportioning valve (I think off a Navara) and use a brake bias adjusted; or maybe I will leave it. I will live with it a bit first though to see how I go.

Ultimately, if someone does try it with a t-piece I hope that they post their results here. I for one can't see why it wouldn't work.

moo_r32 Proficient

moo_r32

Posted
Posted

im about to do this on my new r33 track car as im using a differant motor and loom in it, therefore i wont have any plugs for it and also the unit was missing when i bought the car, so figured it would be easier and cheaper to make up sum new lines and i can also run the front passanger line down along the crossmember to keep the fire wall neat and simple and i guess it will also keep it away from the exhaust heat a lil bit too. iv got a double flairer tool and tube bender soo will jus need to buy sum line, a fiew screw fittings and a T-peice, im gona keep the standard bmc, as i believe it will be ok, but as u mentioned b4, if needed ill jus grab a brake bias adjuster?

will keep u posted tho....

  • 4 weeks later...
moo_r32 Proficient

moo_r32

Posted
Posted

finished it.. it works killa!! spoke to a bunch ob brake places and they all said the same thing...... that it will be perfectly normal, as the abs unit does not divide the pressures left to right or front to back, all it does is stop the wheels from locking up and thats it! so it is no differant what so ever!

hope this helps. cheers

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...
Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted
Thats mine :blink:

feel free to ask me questions on here or pm

So what exactly is happening in these pics?

Im guessing that:

1) The brass T-piece is to bypass the abs unit for the front wheels...?

2) The brass joiner (straight piece) is to bypass the ABS unit for the rear brakes...?

The abs unit in my 32 is leaking so im thinking of removing it all together to save some cash.

How exactly did you remove yours? Was it just a matter or taking the unit out and joining the lines together? (as in the pics)

Or was there more to it than that?

Cheers,

Mark

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 years later...
rcs_888 Rising Star

rcs_888

Posted
Posted

Sorry to bring up an old thread but could those pictures be re posted? I have an R34 GTT that im building for track only and have removed the ABS module and kept the original master with 2 outlets. I just ran a small section to a 'T' piece that splits to both front calipers and then the other outlet from the master goes to my firewall through the firewall to hydro handbrake and then back to the rear circuit. Bled it up yesterday and i have a solid brake pedal and the calipers are stuck on. Cant workout whats happened :(

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