Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Those champion plugs look much like I'd expect a standard set to after quite a few k's - rounding of the centre electrode due to erosion, which also increases the gap. There seems to be bit of variation in combustion between cylinders but that might be due to the increasing gap....also could just be the photo. In any event, the amount of k's to produce the same erosion in a set of platinum plugs should be considerably greater (assuming normal combustion).

One possible common thing here is fuel - what do you run in these cars over there ??

Those champion plugs look much like I'd expect a standard set to after quite a few k's - rounding of the centre electrode due to erosion, which also increases the gap. There seems to be bit of variation in combustion between cylinders but that might be due to the increasing gap....also could just be the photo. In any event, the amount of k's to produce the same erosion in a set of platinum plugs should be considerably greater (assuming normal combustion).

One possible common thing here is fuel - what do you run in these cars over there ??

Hi ...

Mostly 95 octane ... pump fuel.

Then there is 100 octane ultimate, but it's quite pricey.

I have not tried 100 octane yet, but will check it out once my gas tank is nearly empty.

I now have installed these NGK copper plugs (shame on me) and I have a slight misfire at idle (at least I think it's misfire)

And I'm under the impression that the car ran better with the AutoLite Platinum plugs. (though I have not fully tested)

Cheers from rainy London :)

Were they the .8mm pregapped ones ?? I had misfire at idle too with .8mm. Regapped them to 1mm and no more misfire at any rpm... If you can't be bothered regapping, might be easier/cheaper just to buy a new set (what is it like 10 euro for 6?) of the ones that come with 1.1mm gap and try those, I suspect they'll work just fine if the old ones were 1.5mm.

Mostly 95 octane ... pump fuel.

Then there is 100 octane ultimate, but it's quite pricey.

95 is probably a bit on the low side, but should be OK as long as you don't push it too hard and are running stock boost and timing. AFAIA these cars are designed to run on around 100 octane Jap fuel so the further you are away from that standard the more likely damage is to occur. Anyway, may not be the total answer for the plug damage you have, but possibly a contributing factor.

95 is probably a bit on the low side, but should be OK as long as you don't push it too hard and are running stock boost and timing. AFAIA these cars are designed to run on around 100 octane Jap fuel so the further you are away from that standard the more likely damage is to occur. Anyway, may not be the total answer for the plug damage you have, but possibly a contributing factor.

Yep ... they are designed for 100, but the knock sensor helps keeping low octane usable.

What fuel do you driver over there?

And how expensive is gas in Oz?

Cheers ..

GDay Andrew!

We use 98 RON fuel here and it's cheaper than yours! In Sydney, it can be $1.29/l midweek and then go up 10c later in the week.

I'd try re-gapping the plugs as Delta-F said with your 100 octane and get back to us.

If the Kms travelled is suss, had you thought of changing your timing belt?

Cheers, T

GDay Andrew!

We use 98 RON fuel here and it's cheaper than yours! In Sydney, it can be $1.29/l midweek and then go up 10c later in the week.

I'd try re-gapping the plugs as Delta-F said with your 100 octane and get back to us.

If the Kms travelled is suss, had you thought of changing your timing belt?

Cheers, T

Hi Terry,

That's dirt cheap for 98 RON!

I'll come over to Oz then ... seems a good place for me anyway since I also have a dirtbike which I really would like to use...

As for the timing belt I have given it some thought already ..

I'd like having a look at the belt just to be sure ..

Is the cover easy to detach so the belt is exposed for checking?

As for the car:

The mileage seems suspiciously low but all the engine (serpentine) belts look like brand new.

Then there are the tires.

The manufacturing date for the tires seems to be 01/2001 and they're some expensive Japanese ones (forgot the name)

However the thread is at 85% ..

But one thing is for sure, it has been garaged since the paint is in good nick.

Cheers! :blush:

If the car is running fine and your happy with it, then I'd just drive and enjoy. The issue with the plugs will probably remain a mystery.

In terms of fuel, you should run as close to what is recommended as possible. 98 is the minimum I would run, but lower is possible, just take it easy. One thing - don't rely on the knock sensor to do your tuning for you (so to speak)....it's not designed for that.

That's dirt cheap for 98 RON!

I'll come over to Oz then ... seems a good place for me anyway since I also have a dirtbike which I really would like to use...

Yes Andrew, I believe your petrol costs are about 33% above ours for the same grade.

I suspect that the North Sea Oil has been milk by the Norwegians whilst the English are asleep! :down:

That's why they won't join the EU!

And that's my version of a Conspiracy Theory anyway.

Look some of us up when in Oz eh?

Happy to know your car's in good nick. :ermm:

Yes Andrew, I believe your petrol costs are about 33% above ours for the same grade.

Actually, I think it's even pricier than that. It's over a pound there at present, I think, for regular. Which is about AU$1.90 at the current exchange rate.

Were they the .8mm pregapped ones ?? I had misfire at idle too with .8mm. Regapped them to 1mm and no more misfire at any rpm... If you can't be bothered regapping, might be easier/cheaper just to buy a new set (what is it like 10 euro for 6?) of the ones that come with 1.1mm gap and try those, I suspect they'll work just fine if the old ones were 1.5mm.

Well ... I see what I can do.

Right now I'm glad I got the bonnet closed :)

But I guess I need to regap the plugs to 1-1.1 ..

:P

Actually, I think it's even pricier than that. It's over a pound there at present, I think, for regular. Which is about AU$1.90 at the current exchange rate.

Right ... and given the current rate of exchange it is more like AU$2.20 for 100 octane ..

:P

Right ... and given the current rate of exchange it is more like AU$2.20 for 100 octane ..

:P

To us Sydney-fellah-talk, that means we can pay for the fuel from Sydney to the base of Macquarie Pass and then go UP & DOWN Macquarie Pass for nicks!!! So that's what we save in our fuel costs to yours lolz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It’ll be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
    • Light should be a pressure switch, not a sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...