Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so a mate suggested to me the other day that since I am running standard injectors and fuel reg, that until I can afford to get a remap/Nistune RB20 tune done, that I should take out my Microtech LT10S (the usual overfueling, shit fuel economy, horrible cold starts, fouling plugs, the fact that WOT = smokescreen deployed, and a EPA warning letter on top of that!) and replace with a standard RB25 ECU (think its all wired up still into the R32 loom).

Now assuming that wiring is all okay, am I likely to run into any major issues from running FMIC, KKR 480 turbo (boost set to actuator pressure of 8 psi) and turbo back exhaust? The motor is a Series 1 Stagea motor, would I be any better off with the Stagea ECU or just a normal R33 Series 1 do?

I do have an airflow meter sitting in the intake pipe albeit disconnected, and the O2 & VCT are disconnected.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280128-microtech-removal-questions/
Share on other sites

hard to say, but personally I would think the only way you'll know for sure is try it. half of us will say it wont work, and the other half will say it will at the end of the day there is a sure fire way of knowing.....

I do have an airflow meter sitting in the intake pipe albeit disconnected, and the O2 & VCT are disconnected.

So do you intend on connecting them? AFM you won't get away with, the other 2 yes, but it's going to run like shit without VCT and o2.

If you can sort out the wiring, then provided you stick to 8psi then I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work.

nah I will connect everything up, there are around 69000 R33's around here so I'm sure I'd be able to get a lend of one, its more fingers crossed that the loom hasn't been butchered, but I'm assuming that there's no major differences in fuel maps etc for Stagea vs R33?

Hopefully the ATTESSA *might* run with a stock ECU as well, but I'm not holding my breath.

Yeah it's mainly come about because I'm so sick and tired of the way the Microtech behaves, but then when you're travelling 400+km to get a decent tuner it's not a cheap exercise at all.

  • 1 month later...

spose ill do a bit of an update; finally got a stock computer, threw it in, hooked up AFM... and nothing! I'd forgotten that the Microtech had a relay set up in the boot for the fuel pump so stock computer wouldn't prime! I'll be getting a mate to rewire it for me in the near future, then we'll see what happens...

Ok so a mate suggested to me the other day that since I am running standard injectors and fuel reg, that until I can afford to get a remap/Nistune RB20 tune done, that I should take out my Microtech LT10S (the usual overfueling, shit fuel economy, horrible cold starts, fouling plugs, the fact that WOT = smokescreen deployed, and a EPA warning letter on top of that!) and replace with a standard RB25 ECU (think its all wired up still into the R32 loom).

Now assuming that wiring is all okay, am I likely to run into any major issues from running FMIC, KKR 480 turbo (boost set to actuator pressure of 8 psi) and turbo back exhaust? The motor is a Series 1 Stagea motor, would I be any better off with the Stagea ECU or just a normal R33 Series 1 do?

I do have an airflow meter sitting in the intake pipe albeit disconnected, and the O2 & VCT are disconnected.

the stagea ecu is remappable with a type 4 nistune board andif tuned right passes all the epa tests.

nah gonna sell it to some sucker with a dirty 30 or a rotary owner :)

URAS: I thought that the type 4 board was only compatable with the NEO ECU? That's how I read the Nistune website anyway. Mine is a Series 1 Stagea motor with the old school RB25 and ignitor module.

nah gonna sell it to some sucker with a dirty 30 or a rotary owner :)

URAS: I thought that the type 4 board was only compatable with the NEO ECU? That's how I read the Nistune website anyway. Mine is a Series 1 Stagea motor with the old school RB25 and ignitor module.

ah yep ser1 needs the z32 ecu trick, sorry should have read your post better sorry.

will likely not bother with Z32 and just go RB20 remap and ditch the VCT since I already have a stock RB20 ECU lying around.

best running a jaycar switch then, ive got some dyno tests i did here with and without the vct and the hole in the mid range is about 15-19rwkw deep....

  • 6 months later...

might bump this up again since I'm once again looking at this, I have no idea if the standard plug is for the R32 or R33 ECU, will this matter? when I plugged in the R33 ECU the fuel pump refused to prime, however there is a relay type thing for it in the wiring in the boot, would i need to circumvent that?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...