Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 304
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Well after looking around for some rear brakes for mine (was mainly looking for R35 GTR rears or Alcon 4pots) which i couldnt find i decided why not put the 6pots on the rear :P

Which leaves me to these puppies i picked up the other night

8Pot Brembo Grand Terrizmo with 380mm rotors. They are actually all bolt on ready for a BMW X5, So custom dog bones and hats will be made.

You can see in the pics the pad design, its basically 4 small pads per caliper :)

tomonori51-img600x450-1294549632xduaje54708.jpg

tomonori51-img600x450-1294557545mavdlk80703.jpg

tomonori51-img600x450-12945575458uv24o80703.jpg

hey luke real good build man, very maticulas (spelling)

i think with the manifold matt mentions in his thread in the FI section that even chinese stainless manifolds flowed 50% more the stock and after porting could only get within 15% of the cheep stainless manifolds, lower half of page 6 i believe this is mentioned

Edited by ahh 33 s2

Sure am mate, Have already been ported out and hpc coated.

Reckon i should go different manifolds?

Are they Unique Autosports ported? I prefer the ported OEM manifolds over the stainless tomei and HKS style as you know. They will give better response and longevity. The 6boost are better again, will make the same power at less boost and less heat...also changed my top end considerably(extra 1100rpm of torque b4 drop off) But as you know they are a pain to fit. It wouldn't be a silly option to stick with what you have. Power wise you will have more than enough to go sub 1:15 without any issue's. It just comes down to how much boost you want to use to get there.

GTRS's need minimal exhaust restriction to punch past 500kw, that's the key. Side pipes are the only way to go. Noise level may be an issue as I did get pulled up on Sat.

Matt

Just got a mate to port them with a die grinder.

Plan to go twin Titanium side pipes (one off each turbo)

Will be good to see how the 6Boost manifolds go over time and weather they crack or not. Thats one thing why im staying stock so far.

  • 1 month later...

Sure am mate, Have already been ported out and hpc coated.

Reckon i should go different manifolds?

firstly awesome build mate

i have the gtrs turbos with external wastes i also had standard manifolds with the r34 dump pipes with 22psi i made 410awkw and was only making power to 7800rpm i changed to hks manifolds and tomei dump pipes and a 3.5inch exhaust all the way through made 449awkw i think u should ditch the standard stuff my 2c worth

Are they Unique Autosports ported? I prefer the ported OEM manifolds over the stainless tomei and HKS style as you know. They will give better response and longevity. The 6boost are better again, will make the same power at less boost and less heat...also changed my top end considerably(extra 1100rpm of torque b4 drop off) But as you know they are a pain to fit. It wouldn't be a silly option to stick with what you have. Power wise you will have more than enough to go sub 1:15 without any issue's. It just comes down to how much boost you want to use to get there.

GTRS's need minimal exhaust restriction to punch past 500kw, that's the key. Side pipes are the only way to go. Noise level may be an issue as I did get pulled up on Sat.

Matt

not that easy to make 500kw or maybe the dyno i use doesnt bullshit lol

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just changed the timing belt on my RB25DET NEO and wanted to get some opinions. I’ve been super cautious, did a lot of research, and took my time. I’ve driven the car, and it runs fine. After warming it up, I revved it to 8000 RPM a few times—no issues, everything held up.   After the drive, I heard a noise that I think is either the clutch or possibly a tight accessory belt. It’s not constant, just comes and goes.   I took the timing cover off to double-check everything:   Belt is on properly, Tensioner is tight, Did the 90-degree twist test—belt isn’t too tight or too loose.     What still worries me is that I noticed the belt seems to sit a little toward the front edge of the gears, especially on the idler pulley. It even looks like it’s slightly coming off the edge there. Is that normal?   My old belt (5 years old, ~3,000 miles) also showed a bit of wear on that same edge, so maybe it’s just how it sits? I’m probably overthinking this, but since it’s my first time doing this on a NEO and the engine is forged, I really don’t want to mess anything up.   Also, I’m thinking of swapping to a clear front timing cover with the glass window. Would you recommend NITO or HPI? HPI looks reputable and their covers have 2.5mm thickness, but not sure if there’s a real difference between the two.   Any advice or reassurance would be much appreciated!
    • 40 grit sounds about right, to start. You make some decent cuts/damage in the coating with that, then rapdily scale up to maybe 80 and 120 for the bulk of the actual removal, then fine it off to 180 or 240 perhaps. No need to go any finer than that, and maybe no need to go even as fine as that. Wrap it on a big block and have at it. At least on the hub face.
    • Do the GKTech rear lower control arm mount relocation, and either alloy subframe inserts or very stiff subframe bushes. Traction is going to be at a premium!
    • Hello,   My name if Frederick, i'm 30 years old and I live in Belgium, Europe! I used to have a Nissan 370z daily but since I got a company car I turned that into my seattime driftcar. About 3 years ago I also wanted something older with more feel, so I got an R32 GTST with an rb26 engine. I am now getting the rb built to have around 800hp and it's close to being finished. I'm very excited for how it will drive and how driveable it will be! Regards, Fred!
    • Appreciate the insight! Talked to some local folks and they basically told me "it's not that deep." As long as the threading on the inside matches what's at the steering rack, everything else can be constructed-to-fit. There are full aftermarket kits I can use - probably better for my car overall since it's lowered.  Example: GKTech M14 Super Adjustable Inner Tie Rod Set - Nissan Skyline R32 R33 R33, 240SX, 300ZX, 350Z / Infiniti G35 M14I-TROD-2 gktM145-TROD gktM14I-TROD - Concept Z Performance (These can be packaged with their "high misalignment" tie rod ends).
×
×
  • Create New...