Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 304
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Well after looking around for some rear brakes for mine (was mainly looking for R35 GTR rears or Alcon 4pots) which i couldnt find i decided why not put the 6pots on the rear :P

Which leaves me to these puppies i picked up the other night

8Pot Brembo Grand Terrizmo with 380mm rotors. They are actually all bolt on ready for a BMW X5, So custom dog bones and hats will be made.

You can see in the pics the pad design, its basically 4 small pads per caliper :)

tomonori51-img600x450-1294549632xduaje54708.jpg

tomonori51-img600x450-1294557545mavdlk80703.jpg

tomonori51-img600x450-12945575458uv24o80703.jpg

hey luke real good build man, very maticulas (spelling)

i think with the manifold matt mentions in his thread in the FI section that even chinese stainless manifolds flowed 50% more the stock and after porting could only get within 15% of the cheep stainless manifolds, lower half of page 6 i believe this is mentioned

Edited by ahh 33 s2

Sure am mate, Have already been ported out and hpc coated.

Reckon i should go different manifolds?

Are they Unique Autosports ported? I prefer the ported OEM manifolds over the stainless tomei and HKS style as you know. They will give better response and longevity. The 6boost are better again, will make the same power at less boost and less heat...also changed my top end considerably(extra 1100rpm of torque b4 drop off) But as you know they are a pain to fit. It wouldn't be a silly option to stick with what you have. Power wise you will have more than enough to go sub 1:15 without any issue's. It just comes down to how much boost you want to use to get there.

GTRS's need minimal exhaust restriction to punch past 500kw, that's the key. Side pipes are the only way to go. Noise level may be an issue as I did get pulled up on Sat.

Matt

Just got a mate to port them with a die grinder.

Plan to go twin Titanium side pipes (one off each turbo)

Will be good to see how the 6Boost manifolds go over time and weather they crack or not. Thats one thing why im staying stock so far.

  • 1 month later...

Sure am mate, Have already been ported out and hpc coated.

Reckon i should go different manifolds?

firstly awesome build mate

i have the gtrs turbos with external wastes i also had standard manifolds with the r34 dump pipes with 22psi i made 410awkw and was only making power to 7800rpm i changed to hks manifolds and tomei dump pipes and a 3.5inch exhaust all the way through made 449awkw i think u should ditch the standard stuff my 2c worth

Are they Unique Autosports ported? I prefer the ported OEM manifolds over the stainless tomei and HKS style as you know. They will give better response and longevity. The 6boost are better again, will make the same power at less boost and less heat...also changed my top end considerably(extra 1100rpm of torque b4 drop off) But as you know they are a pain to fit. It wouldn't be a silly option to stick with what you have. Power wise you will have more than enough to go sub 1:15 without any issue's. It just comes down to how much boost you want to use to get there.

GTRS's need minimal exhaust restriction to punch past 500kw, that's the key. Side pipes are the only way to go. Noise level may be an issue as I did get pulled up on Sat.

Matt

not that easy to make 500kw or maybe the dyno i use doesnt bullshit lol

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...