Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys....I figured I may aswell throw this up here....cause well Im bored

After much discussion and thought I decided I'd give MRA a shot - http://motorracingaustralia.com.au/

The car will be pretty basic as I just want to go out an race rather than spend the next 2 years building the car.

So here's a basic run down on what the car has now.

ENGINE:

Standard Internal RB25DET

Stainless Exhaust manifold with 38mm Ext Gate

KKK K27 Turbo with a .6AR exhaust housing (its tiny)

Greddy Copy Plenum and standard throttle body

3" Mild Steel Turbo back exhaust

Suspension:

Tein Super Streets

Adjustable Rear upper Arms

Adjustable Caster Rods

I was going to change the Super Streets for somthing a little more track orientated, But I remeber the Success that the Mark Berry / Russel Newman 32 GTR had running them, so I decided to leave them.

In the next week or two I'm going to order a Bond Mild Steel Half Cage (MRA regs require a CAMS Spec Full cage) So I will have the rest of the cage finished off before the 2010 season starts, and once im game enough to hack into my dash for the cage

Im pretty sure ive got a fixed back seat sussed (sparco Sprint V) just going to have a sit in one before I make my decision.

Im yet to decide on what ECU I will use...Sold my PFC Pro when my old engine went POP, DOH!...considering just getting a Toshi Re-map

Injectors will probably be S15 SR20DET 450cc Jobbies as im only aiming for 250-260rwkw on this motor.

Any way enough rambling time for pics.....

post-16947-1248493470_thumb.jpg

Heres how it sits at the moment.

post-16947-1248494000_thumb.jpg

Engine Completed

First Start

post-16947-1248494185_thumb.jpg

And my surge tank.

Ill Have some more pics later today :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280635-zebras-2010-mra-gts-t-build/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 340
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

post-16947-1248648555_thumb.jpgStevo- was thinking last night that once the car is a full track bitch that its gonna cop a VQ30det, all alloy 3L V6 Turbo with a GT3076 hanging off the side :angry:

Also does any one know if 33 GTR rear sway bars will fit the gtst?

I know the front wont.

Heres a few more pics...while im waiting for the tow truck to arrive

post-16947-1248648182_thumb.jpg

post-16947-1248648299_thumb.jpg

And Here is the reason for this new engine....

post-16947-1248648555_thumb.jpg

post-16947-1248648555_thumb.jpgStevo- was thinking last night that once the car is a full track bitch that its gonna cop a VQ30det, all alloy 3L V6 Turbo with a GT3076 hanging off the side :P

Also does any one know if 33 GTR rear sway bars will fit the gtst?

I know the front wont.

Heres a few more pics...while im waiting for the tow truck to arrive

post-16947-1248648182_thumb.jpg

post-16947-1248648299_thumb.jpg

And Here is the reason for this new engine....

post-16947-1248648555_thumb.jpg

thatd possibly be the worst thing you could do to that car. Stick with the RB25/RB30/RB26

The cost to change the engine over will outweight any benifits and there is far better support for the RB engine than the VG.

You have to remember your trying to build a race car. The simpler you make things the easier it becomes. Go stuffing an engine into a hole it was not meant to be in and your asking for a world of pain.

Custom parts can't be found easily at the race track. Atleast with an original engine there is some hope of getting the right parts when something breaks from a repco or supercheap etc.

If your prepared to carry a mirrad of spares around then go for it but really there is nothing wrong with the RB and id forget the VG idea before it even gets off the ground.

she'll be a while off yet before I decide what to do....havent even driven the car with this engine on the road yet lol...although i did scare a little kid and his mother driving out the driveway to the tow truck this morning.....zero exhaust and 3000 revs FTW haha

shouldnt have to decide. Drop the V6 idea before you even begin.

Id considered it a few times over the years and never done it for a few very good reasons. Money not being one of them.

The RB works perfectly in the chassis

Transmissions are cheap and easy to get for the RB (try buying an upgraded VQ tranny for a decent price)

No custom one off parts that might fail and cant be replaced at the track

Single sided exhaust system keeps thermal management to a minimum and also weight

Plenty of off the shelf parts for the RB, bottom ends etc are so cheap and easy to get (again price a VQ)

Management is simple and easy to get

Not to mention the outlay to have things made like tailshafts etc etc.

My oppinion is that youd spend a tad over 10 grand converting to a VQ roughly. That 10 grand would more than cover a decent dry sump system for your existing RB and also cover alot of the rebuild parts you'd need to make it sturdy.

Also saving alot of headaches and drama come time to race it and break it.

Just my oppinion. Like you say long way off but id be changing direction now.

I considered using a VQ40 pathfinder engine in my current GTR but gave the idea away and went back to the old faithfull RB26. There is just no reason to make the change in a chassis that works so well with the RB

Yeah fair call....mmm dry sump.

I know what you mean about bottom ends been cheap....my "race" bottom end cost 200 bucks lol and has better oil pressure and less blow by at idle than my old built motor ...what a sack of crap that was.....biggest waste of 6 grand ever

i hope its good...its on the car now lol

yeah im gonna see how this turbo goes with the little exhaust housing (was on B-mans Fj20 before i bought it) if i dont like it, the bigger .9 ar housing is about 400 bucks.

But im told this turbo made 312rwkws on a rb20 so we should be good for my 250kw target.

Rb30 would be nice though...might have to have alook at the local wreakers

ahh don't worry about the motor Andrew it is the least of your issues. just get something bolted together that works, get it tuned up....then turn it down 20% for safety and mid range pull.

then....start on all the stuff that adds up but makes a much bigger difference than outright power....

bushes

shocks

springs

brakes (F&R)

diff centre

safety gear (seats, harnesses, cage, kill switch etc)

wheel alignment (including testing)

wheels

tyres

tyres

tyres

tyres

you get the idea

I know you've got a long way to go yet, but unless your budget is "ample" stay away from stuff like cusco. It is top shelf quality with a price to match.

Instead....head down to just jap and check out what they have :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...