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I had to get another crank after my first rb30 because the clutch pressure was too much on the thrust. The machinists say this is common with supra and skyline cranks as the clutches we all like to use have huge pressure ratings.

Easiest way to avoid it? Don't sit at lights with the clutch in just waiting while other cars go. Only use the clutch when you have the green. It takes some getting used to but then it's second nature

I dont have pics atm but who ever did the machine work on the crank should be shot!

They drilled the crank to balance it...but punched a hole through the side of 2 counterweights! and didnt bother to clean up the large metal shards...so i could just rub my thumb over them the chunks of metal would come off.

also found cracks in the ring lands on 3 pistons and the rods look junk due to the same dodge machinist.

Ill get some photos of the thrust bearings aswel, because I lol'ed when i could move the crank back and forth 5mm.

So Im up for an entire rotating assembly for an RB30, might be a while before its done, but it will be done well

Turns out the motor was even worse then I thought! Hence the price.

And Titan, what machinist? I don't have a machinist, and I don't machine it on my own either.

Let me see what these other 2 RB30s are like when I strip them down, and see if I have anything to offer.

Edit: Steveo, thanks for the advice... Will have to remember that in future, it had a 1250KG pressure plate in it too...

I had a good chat with Greg at Proengines at lunch time today.

He said that the holes in the side of the crank counterweights are factory! lol.

Also had a good chat about trying a few things with the cylinder head and stuff, So hopfully Ill have I hell of a decent engine in around 12 months.

He also said any gain in response by using high comp pistons is lost in peak power due to not being able to run much timing on boost.

So looks like Mahle flat tops and a 1.3mm headgasket are the go, with a bit skimmed off the head to remove the pock marks.

I had a good chat with Greg at Proengines at lunch time today.

He said that the holes in the side of the crank counterweights are factory! lol.

Also had a good chat about trying a few things with the cylinder head and stuff, So hopfully Ill have I hell of a decent engine in around 12 months.

He also said any gain in response by using high comp pistons is lost in peak power due to not being able to run much timing on boost.

So looks like Mahle flat tops and a 1.3mm headgasket are the go, with a bit skimmed off the head to remove the pock marks.

hint hint, WMI + high comp pistons = win.

He also said any gain in response by using high comp pistons is lost in peak power due to not being able to run much timing on boost.

if you're still looking at running E85 this will be a null point as so many people can dial in timing past the max timing for power mark...

if you're still looking at running E85 this will be a null point as so many people can dial in timing past the max timing for power mark...

E85 wont happen until I can get it here in Canberra from a bowser so prob around 2 years or so,

Do you have any pictures of how it all looks? How bad was it really?

No pics as yet, ill get some tonight,

But the thrust bearing has streamers of metal hanging off it and the #2 bearing is squished flat. and the forward thrust face on the crank is badly chewed up.

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