Zebra's 2010 Mra Gts-t Build

[TiTAN]

if you dont mind cutting the body a bit, you could possibly fit it infront of the passenger side wheel where the pod would normally be. would need some creative pipe work though.

[zebra]

Yeah may need to cut and weld some flat plate in or somthing, was thinging of putting it where the fuse box/washer bottle sits

[r33_racer]

I wish I lived in canberra to give a hand!

[TiTAN]

no you dont, its cold down here.

[MBS206]

It will all be new stuff, Im just hoping I can fit the w2a cooler in the engine bay lol

Cool, ill give you a hoy If i need a hand

Drop the motor as far as possible, run an over the motor plenum again, and sit a custom W2A cooler on top of the motor, particularly towards the back of the motor...

[r33_racer]

no you dont, its cold down here.

That is a good point. Its bad enough here and its not even cold yet.

[zebra]

no you dont, its cold down here.

hahah at the rate this project is going Ill be living back on the gold coast before its finished lol

Drop the motor as far as possible, run an over the motor plenum again, and sit a custom W2A cooler on top of the motor, particularly towards the back of the motor...

Thats an idea, although, I have an angle grinder that hasnt been used in a while, and I hear it calling to me lol

[zebra]

Saw a w2a cooler on a big power 2j, gave me an idea on where to mount mine, Im going to try and get it under the plenum, with a 180 deg pipe coming off and into the thottle body, Will have to do some measuring on the weekend.

Also the dirty 30 short motor should be assembled on Sunday.

Then its time to find another 25 head to use, that way I will have 2 mostly complete motors, might even buy a standard or small aftermarket turbo and put on the 25 and tuck it away in the corner for a rainy day.

Will get pics of the new engine on Sunday.

For those that havent gotten bored with my very very slow project.

Damn Bills

[zebra]

Rb30 Bottom end is together now, just gotta get a good sump and front and rear crank seals and a water pump.

[zebra]

Also while im thinking of it.

Who has cut the radiator support panel to allow for easy engine and g/box removal and refitting? I cant see it being a stressed part of the chassis and it would mean It would be much easier to swap the motor and box out being that last time i did it i bent the rad support getting the rear of the box over it.

[r33_racer]

Weve done it to our race car. Our radiator sits out in front more cause of its size. We just made up an ally plate to goes back over and bolts down eachside, so its removable.

So go for it! Cut the bitch out!

[zebra]

sounds good!

Ill attack it next weekend

Thanks mate

[r33_racer]

No worries. You will love it!

[zebra]

I sure hope so.

Does anyone have a standard turbo lying about? Putting stock bits back on the rb25 while I build the 30...Im itchin to get back out on track!!!

[zebra]

Not much more to to report this week

Just going to double check all the clearences and bolt torque on the 3L

I need to get my engine stand to finish it off.

[zebra]

Well my hands are cut to shreds but the intake manifold is off the rb25 now lol.

Few questions for those that can spare the time to answer them,

#1 Can I ditch the coolant rail that bolts under the plenum, only reason I can see if being there for is the factory oil warmer, or is that the only path the coolant can take on its way back to the radiator?

#2 After looking at the rats nest of a loom in the engine bay I decided I will re-wire the whole car, not sure on how good of a job I will do, but at least all the seperate systems will be seperate and will help with any diagnosis. Does anyone have some pointers on what wiring to use, I was thinking multi-core trailer wire, but will it suffice? Also the Altenator? I cant see how it runs back to the battery due to 3000000000 other seperate looms running with the cable....All the under dash wiring will come out as im not going to use the factory dash, and will just have basic intruments (RPM, Boost, Oil Pres and temp and water temp)

#3 Has anyone undone the 2 grub screws on the intake side of the head, what is behind them? Im hoping its the coolant galleries as I want to use them to run some braided line into a header tank/swirl pot thingo, to make sure there is never any air in the Head.

#4 What else can I ditch being that this car is track only, none of the heater hoses are going back on the new motor....nor will I run a speedo

#5 Being that the Microtech has no knock function, should i leave the knock sensors out, or should I put them in and run the wires to a plug that in the future I can use for a knock box...I think its a good idea but im a newb at these full on race cars.

Hope you guys can help...as I want the neatest solution possible.

Thanks

[zebra]

Bugger all wiring left in the car now

just the loom that runs under the drivers side guard and up under the dash.

Now just gotta find some fuse boxes and relay setups for it all

[r33_racer]

nice work. going to slam the wiring yourself hey? i cringe, it sounds painful.

[MBS206]

Andrew, I think brad makes looms for exactly what you want. Secondly, get a kmon and hook up the knock sensors so you have knock warning.

Ditch the charcoal canister, just get rid of it. Like GONE!

You should look at converting you brake to have no booster as well.

Also my turbo mani and dump are off for you along with lines. It also looks like part of my oil issue with that turbo is oil pullin in the return just out side the block which would have popped the seals.

[zebra]

nice work. going to slam the wiring yourself hey? i cringe, it sounds painful.

Hahahah yep, good thing with the microtech is that its quite simple, no VCT wiring, No AAC valve, etc etc, so its just injectors, ignition, fuel pumps and the CAS, although I have heard that the altenator needs to be hooked up to the dash light otherwise it wont charge....that sounds like an old wives tale to me though, guess I will find out

Brake lights are easy, headlights will just be a switch on the dash same with wipers

Andrew, I think brad makes looms for exactly what you want. Secondly, get a kmon and hook up the knock sensors so you have knock warning.

Ditch the charcoal canister, just get rid of it. Like GONE!

You should look at converting you brake to have no booster as well.

Also my turbo mani and dump are off for you along with lines. It also looks like part of my oil issue with that turbo is oil pullin in the return just out side the block which would have popped the seals.

Charcoal cannister is long gone lol, just gotta remove the lines now. I thought about no booster, but my knees are fubar, and i sometimes struggle on track with the booster, so non assisted brakes are a no no.