Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How do you remove them? There must be a special tool?

I'd rather get them from Vic Police rather than interstate on eBay as I can be certain the removal tool will be available.

Go to bunnings , they sell them in the builders department. I know because i work there lolz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281179-how-to-stop-licence-plate-theft/
Share on other sites

Vic Police had a stand at the Melbourne F1 this year for the one way screws. You just had to tell them what car you had and they looked it up in their book and gave you the best screws to use.

I haven't even looked at them yet because I was going to wait to order personalised plates before using them.

Maybe you can still pick them up from police? :\

pretty sure most cop shops will hook you up

Hi guys, my mate just bought some personalised plates, but as he doesn't have a garage, has to park his car outside. I am also looking into getting custom plates.

I had a bad experience 2 years ago with people stealing my plates outside and then, I guess, using it for petrol station theft (this was in the bad old days of $1.60/L prices). It wasn't customised, so I ordered new standard plates,.

If it was personalise plates, could you re-order the same ones or would it have to be a different combo? I would be gutted if I lost my combo. I was looking around at ways to deter licence plate theft and I stumbled on this:

http://www.drive.com.au/Editorial/ArticleD...ArticleID=57071

I totally didn't know about this when it was on. Does anyone know if this service is still available anywhere?

Had a look at eBay without much success. Only listing I could find was this:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/8-x-ONE-WAY-NUMBER-...bayphotohosting

I don't understand how they can be one-way screws when they are screwed in with any normal screwdriver, look like normal screws, and apparently don't need a specialised tool to unscrew.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Vic Police had a stand at the Melbourne F1 this year for the one way screws. You just had to tell them what car you had and they looked it up in their book and gave you the best screws to use.

I haven't even looked at them yet because I was going to wait to order personalised plates before using them.

Maybe you can still pick them up from police? :\

If you look at the screws closely the edges that get hit by the screwdriver when undoing are ramped, causing the drive to pop out of the slot.

100px-Screws_-_tamper_resistant_slotted.jpg

How do you remove them? There must be a special tool?

I'd rather get them from Vic Police rather than interstate on eBay as I can be certain the removal tool will be available.

Alen keys bolts.

and put a bolt on the otherside, and if you like, lock tight also, and number plate proctectors position right your can get any fingers under there :)

Or one better would be Torx bolts.

2094.jpg

Alen keys bolts.

and put a bolt on the otherside, and if you like, lock tight also, and number plate proctectors position right your can get any fingers under there :pirate:

Instead of loctite use a lock nut, that way the only way to get it off is a spanner on each side.

Dont know where to get them from but there is a bolt that once it is torqued up to a certain pressure the head snaps off, you either ues a chisel/angle grinder or have to cut a grove in the top to use a screw driver.

Dont know where to get them from but there is a bolt that once it is torqued up to a certain pressure the head snaps off, you either ues a chisel/angle grinder or have to cut a grove in the top to use a screw driver.

The drive snaps of the nut normally and they just have a flat head, the ones we use at work are called Hi-Locks, Put a big penny washer under the head of the fastner and nut as well, makes it harder to rip off the number plate....

use a nail gun and nail it along the border of your number plate.

that's what we have to do in Asia. as soon as we bought our new 1989 toyota corolla se (back in 1989) we took it to a workshop to have one of the guys there to nail gun all badges, YES, those are the toyota logo, the 1.6SE badge at the boot, etc. Put a screw on the grill toyota badge as well.

so they don't go missing.

Maybe I'm missing the obvious, but if you can't get them off, how the f**k do you get your plates off when you want/need to?

When do you want to?

But if your happy to make it easy for someone else to get your plates off because MAYBE one day you MIGHT need to take them off then you'll just have to deal with it when there stolen.

When do you want to?

But if your happy to make it easy for someone else to get your plates off because MAYBE one day you MIGHT need to take them off then you'll just have to deal with it when there stolen.

Considering this is a website of car enthusiasts...Car shows, DECA, track days and so on.

screw a metal strip into your bumber or where ever its meant to go make sure you drill holes in it prior to putting it on that match your number plate screw holes then potrivit your number plate to the metal strip if you need to get them off you just use a drill the number plate will cover the screws that are holding the metal stip to your bar :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...