Jump to content
SAU Community

Towing Track Car Behind Ba?

No Crust Racing

By No Crust Racing,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thought I'd better post an update to this.

I did end up towing the car to DECA and the BA managed fine though it did drink the fuel. 150k's for half a tank so bare that in mind. Having said that I did sit on 105 or so on the highway.

I might look around some wreckers for a heavy duty tow pack and invest in a trans cooler down the track. I've read some interesting things about BA auto's breaking something internal to the box that can be bypassed for an external one (not sure if they're talking about a cooler or not) more research is needed.

Ultimately, was all OK. Just give yourself plenty of space to brake.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

I agree with Russman, there's so much emphasis on L/100km these days that many automatics have been built with nastily tall overdrives and even the penultimate gear.

Russman Grand Master

Russman

Posted
Posted
Had a bad run in with a modern auto and towing Russ? What did you break?

Yeah pretty much stuffed my mums 6cyl EL auto from towing a commodore accross black spur. It was a big climb and coming down using engine braking while brakes faded really bad.

Aussie cars are crap haha.

My VS SS has an auto cooler and is shift kitted etc and it seems pretty good. Also has bigger VT brakes which helps.

As far as auto's go you can't beat an old Turbo 350 or Turbo 400. They're so tough but also suck the power out of the engine.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted
You might be able to tell me what it is inside the BA auto's that breaks, some internal tank thing.

Can't remember what it was when I was having the discussion with a gearbox guy.

Sorry mate, I only deal with manual transmissions and diffs :D

Really though, I wouldn't be towing a race vehicle or road car with anything but a nice torquey 4x4. Certainly not if I was hitting the hills...it's a recipe for transmission/engine disaster IMO. Aussie cars are made to tow caravans and small boats. We have a 4.2 turbo diesel Land Cruiser which does the race car tow pretty well, but even with that we stay out of 5th gear...and when going uphill it's 3rd gear all the way.

Rowdyr32 Mentor

Rowdyr32

Posted
Posted

Should have done it no worries. Both of my half shagged xf falcons have towed my gtr and do 100-110 no worries. The BA shouldn't have even broken a sweat. Ford normally ford with their falcons only offer the heavy duty tow pack with their auto's. No need at all for a 4x4 to tow a car. Mates have towed a massive caravan around oz no worries in a BA. We used to tow large gen sets plus gear behind EL and AU ford utes for years without missing a beat. They used to tow in 4th fine also with a lot more weight than 2 ton.

If anything thing was going to go in a auto its going to be the clutch packs most likely. They were the weakest link when working with DSI.

_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted
I agree with Russman, there's so much emphasis on L/100km these days that many automatics have been built with nastily tall overdrives and even the penultimate gear.

I always was told to tow with overdrive OFF in an auto.

It would also make sense to add some decent pads to the car if you are towing with it.... do QFM/Racebrakes do BA/VE/AU/VX/VT/VS etc pads?

racin8 Contributor

racin8

Posted
Posted
Sorry mate, I only deal with manual transmissions and diffs :P

Really though, I wouldn't be towing a race vehicle or road car with anything but a nice torquey 4x4. Certainly not if I was hitting the hills...it's a recipe for transmission/engine disaster IMO. Aussie cars are made to tow caravans and small boats. We have a 4.2 turbo diesel Land Cruiser which does the race car tow pretty well, but even with that we stay out of 5th gear...and when going uphill it's 3rd gear all the way.

I would advise you not to use 5th with the 4.2 1hz unless doing over 110 -120kph ( even without towing ) and never ever when towing. These engines and trannys have well documented 5th gear issues.....awesome vehicles just stay out of 5th

not that you ever really need it anyway.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted
I always was told to tow with overdrive OFF in an auto.

It would also make sense to add some decent pads to the car if you are towing with it.... do QFM/Racebrakes do BA/VE/AU/VX/VT/VS etc pads?

That's the smart way about towing, some people don't know this though. Racebrakes will make anything for anything...Howard is the man :P

I would advise you not to use 5th with the 4.2 1hz unless doing over 110 -120kph ( even without towing ) and never ever when towing. These engines and trannys have well documented 5th gear issues.....awesome vehicles just stay out of 5th

not that you ever really need it anyway.

Yeah I know mate, that's why I said we stay out of 5th gear. Also the H151 bolted to turbo diesel and V8 engines is a bit stronger than the H150 or R151 boxes found in the naturally aspirated diesels.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...