Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

btw if i do a manual conversion do i need to change anything to my papers?

Yes, you need to notify VicRoads. If your make/model came with that gearbox from factory (as is the case) that's I as far I know - no engineering, inspection etc. required. Can someone else confirm this though?

called them just now.they are gona get back to me.hopefully i will get the similar price.

@v28vx37.if you get a better quote from someone please let me know thanks.

No worries, will do. Let us know if you end up getting this done at Advanced and how you go.

they called me back and gave me the same quote as well.they said it will take 2 days.but they said there is no warranty or anything on the gearbox.i will get that done i guess just depends on how long it take to sell my r32.going to post it up tomorrow. hahah.

i am still not clear about the vicroads thing so i will call them and let you know.if u have any update plz pm me.thanks.

might be using 33 parts though?

though i understand its just the bell housing, ask if push/pull clutch.

My quote was with an R34 gearbox so I'd assume Deathvalley's is the same, but good to check.

Edited by V28VX37

i think it is from a r34 not a r33.

the price breakdown actually was 1900 for the gearbox and he sais 700-800 for puting it on.but then i said i m not just geting a quote i m going to do it so give me a better price. he said its a bit negotiable.

so i m thinking 2400-2500.

but i saw a lot of gearboxes for sell for 1500 on ebay and gumtree and if labour costs 500-600 that should be a cheaper option.but i am not sure if that is good way to get this thing done.

what do you guys say?

... the price breakdown actually was 1900 for the gearbox and he sais 700-800 for puting it on. ...

I think you mean 1900 for the conversion kit, including the gearbox?

Keep in mind conversions are more than just bolting on a gearbox. Pedal box, clutch master and slave, ecu, dash trim etc.

Indeed, there's quite a few parts that are needed for this.

The lack of warranty is a concern, but then again it's a used box... Hmm. I wonder if anyone does gearbox inspections in Melb? More $$ again though but I'd really hate put a busted box in and pay for the box and labour twice.

It's really hard to inspect a gearbox beyond the drained oil and the feel of the box when driving. You can pull extension housing off, but most gearbox mechanics won't want to touch it further than that. They are one of those...once you pull it apart...you can upset it and create more problems/sounds than it had before. A thorough inspection would require you to replace the bearings and seals in it, i.e. essentially a recondition anyway.

Be wary that a lot of second hand boxes can have shockproof oil put in them, to silence cranky synchros etc.

It's really hard to inspect a gearbox beyond the drained oil and the feel of the box when driving. You can pull extension housing off, but most gearbox mechanics won't want to touch it further than that. They are one of those...once you pull it apart...you can upset it and create more problems/sounds than it had before. A thorough inspection would require you to replace the bearings and seals in it, i.e. essentially a recondition anyway.

Be wary that a lot of second hand boxes can have shockproof oil put in them, to silence cranky synchros etc.

Interesting, thanks for this tips. So there isn't much else one can do besides trusting the seller's word that it's a good condition box? What does a recondition cost?

the guy did tell me that if he puts in a gearbox and sees that its not in perfect condition he will straight away change it and put in a new one.but then again its not much of an assurance so i guess we just have to take the mechanics word for it.

Interesting, thanks for the update. I've sought quotes from a couple of other places but haven't heard back much, I don't think many workshops are overly keen on conversions...

If you decide to go ahead with it test and make sure all mechanical and electrical features work 100% after the conversion: ABS, TCS, VCT, custom tune, boost control, speedo, air con, alarm, low idle 800rpm, no warning lights in dash etc.

  • 1 month later...

@v28vx37 sure mate.i will keep you updated.if u get a better quote from some one else please also let me know.i put up my 32 for sell yesterday.hopefully it will sell so and i will be able to go forward with the conversion.

How'd you get on with this Deathvalley?

I called Advanced Jap Auto again this week and apparently they have recently sold their last conversion kit so back to the drawing board. I can't find anyone else in Melb who would do a drive-in-drive-out job, so I'm now thinking I'll need to collect the parts off eBay and/or forums and just get someone to do the install. Might save a couple of $ but more messy that way..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...