Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So much for me measuring it.. LMAO...

I'll get out soon and measure it tonight.

RE: the gear shift.. I vaguely remember something in another defect thread that it must have the pattern on it.

Cheers Cubes. Don't have to worry about the measuring, got stock springs all the way around now, looks like a 4wd compared to before, im literally in another atmosphere ;)

Cheers, i think the read the same thing with the pattern somewhere, just wanted to make sure so i can get it done asap cause i won't be the one taking it in tomorrow due to work.

Thanks again

Dan

doesnt matter whether u have stock springs, needs to be 360mm or greater from the centre of the rim to the guard. I got sent home for 3mm under that using stock springs! How tight is that! Bushings, heat shield on cat, power steering arm boots, etc are things they like. Its really hard to say what they are going to pick on but i had to go thru 2 times. Second time round so long as everything was done from the first one they sent it thru. So even if you get knocked back first time, it gets easier.

A gear shifter is supposed to have a gear shift pattern on it to meet ADR's. Reason: In an emergency situation it should be expected for someone to be able to get into the car and at a glance know the gear selection layout. This could be either a with a decal or you could go the ferrari/lambo way and get a stencil cut out over the gear stick to show selection. :banana:

However this being said, the stock shifter in the -iR does not have a pattern and thats been through regency twice without question.

Cheers L3nny. It went in today but didnt pass. 1) Amp wasnt secure in boot.....2) Cable from firewall to battery has to be secured to some solid object. 3) Child restraint in the back seat was worn/loose.

I wasn't the happiest with the reasons, but at least its an east fix. Whoever said you have to go through regency twice, i now know the truth to that statment.

Bugger..

Whats this cable from firewall to battery secured to some solid object?

Are they like this from factory as I swear mines just sitting there contained within the factory wrinkle plastic cover tubing stuff.

So now that you've been through can you shed any tips on what they actually look at? I'm assuming you were standing by watching?

Well in short my mum took it in, but she also took my bro's and so she knows a little. Funny thing being a Monday morning is that my car was the first in on a monday morning (not a wise idea), and there were 15 cops 'learning' what to and not to defect.

Anways, in short:

1) Cable from fire wall to battery (that ends up in the boot where the amp is) has to be attached to some form of firm structure. I think you may (MAY) be able to cable tie it to surrounding cables.

2) Cable going through the wall has to be surrounded by rubber grommit, prevent rubbing against the firewall and cuttin it therefore causing some spark/ignition source

3) Height was fine, but must be 360mm all round.

4) Exhuast -> Mine is normally rather loud, had a restrictor put in and it still seemed loud, but they put the tripod with the dB reader on it one meter back (some don't do this...so if they do, say something)

5) Make sure There is no oil showing anywhere. Mum reckons they mentioned about slight power steering reservoir leak

6) Child support things on the rear parcel shelf, make sure they're there (as people tend to remove them for speakers)

7) All indicators, normal lights and headlights work (including reverse)

8) Clearance underneath of car from anything minimum 100mm

9) Check the windscreen whiper level. Windscreen wipers work along with the water spray.

10) Both front and back breaks work, they check them with dyno like rollers. Also make sure hand brake works.

11) make sure bushes on upper control arm (or any really) are fine. Brother got done, mine was fine.

12) Boost gauge on the bottom of the A-piller in that little area is legal (basically to the right of the dash tucked in.

They didn't check my oil/coolant or power steering reservoir levels. Windscreen had a minnuuuute chip in it, but all good. Did take a gear knob with gear pattern on it (very faint though). And obviously BOV not allowed unless plumbed back, POD must be fastened to something -> i.e. some part of the car (mine has a bracket). Cooler is fine. I think that is mainly it. If you have anymore questions just ask. :D

Edited by DC_GTST

Yeah tehy did very similar checks on mine wen it went thru. But they seemed a little more picky with your car. Plus mine didnt have a cooler or anything too modded other than rims and a different front bar.

Good luck with getting thru mate. Their bastards.

Well in short my mum took it in, but she also took my bro's and so she knows a little. Funny thing being a Monday morning is that my car was the first in on a monday morning (not a wise idea), and there were 15 cops 'learning' what to and not to defect.

Anways, in short:

1) Cable from fire wall to battery (that ends up in the boot where the amp is) has to be attached to some form of firm structure. I think you may (MAY) be able to cable tie it to surrounding cables.

2) Cable going through the wall has to be surrounded by rubber grommit, prevent rubbing against the firewall and cuttin it therefore causing some spark/ignition source

3) Height was fine, but must be 360mm all round.

4) Exhuast -> Mine is normally rather loud, had a restrictor put in and it still seemed loud, but they put the tripod with the dB reader on it one meter back (some don't do this...so if they do, say something)

5) Make sure There is no oil showing anywhere. Mum reckons they mentioned about slight power steering reservoir leak

6) Child support things on the rear parcel shelf, make sure they're there (as people tend to remove them for speakers)

7) All indicators, normal lights and headlights work (including reverse)

8) Clearance underneath of car from anything minimum 100mm

9) Check the windscreen whiper level. Windscreen wipers work along with the water spray.

10) Both front and back breaks work, they check them with dyno like rollers. Also make sure hand brake works.

11) make sure bushes on upper control arm (or any really) are fine. Brother got done, mine was fine.

12) Boost gauge on the bottom of the A-piller in that little area is legal (basically to the right of the dash tucked in.

They didn't check my oil/coolant or power steering reservoir levels. Windscreen had a minnuuuute chip in it, but all good. Did take a gear knob with gear pattern on it (very faint though). And obviously BOV not allowed unless plumbed back, POD must be fastened to something -> i.e. some part of the car (mine has a bracket). Cooler is fine. I think that is mainly it. If you have anymore questions just ask. :D

DC_GTST, Are you saying you got through with a pod filter on? Last time i went through they simply said that any pod filter of any kind was unacceptable?

DC_GTST, Are you saying you got through with a pod filter on? Last time i went through they simply said that any pod filter of any kind was unacceptable?

POD filter is legal as long as it is secure. I think they legalised it at the beginning of the year. I had the same thought until someone i know told me they're legal. I questioned it, and then was told that it was actually legal as long as it is bracketed or bolted to something (preferably to the body where it sits as per the norm). Both brother who has a K&N and myself with a HKS have been into regency without a question about the pod.

This is for S.A. I think in some states such as Viv you can only have one of either Cooler/Pod. But yeh, they are legal if bolted down :)

Edited by DC_GTST
12) Boost gauge on the bottom of the A-piller in that little area is legal (basically to the right of the dash tucked in.

You sure about this? I got done for an A-Pillar gauge. They fall off in accidents and can kill you apparently. :blush:

I dont think anything is allowed on the dash/A-pillar?

You sure about this? I got done for an A-Pillar gauge. They fall off in accidents and can kill you apparently. :blush:

I dont think anything is allowed on the dash/A-pillar?

Guy at regency looked and saw the hole from the screw that was on the base of the A-Pillar and he asked me why the boost guage was removed -> saying it is legal to have it there. Just not anything further up the pillar. So you can put it where the A-Pillar meets the dash, but not further up the A'PIllar. Cause in that case if its further up the A-pillar then in an accident there is a possibility of it hurting/killing someone

Thanks for clearing those 2 items up DC GTST

my pod is now secured (again) and the boost guage is back where it belongs, lol.

I was told I cant put my guage there as it gets in the visual way and could cause an accident - funny that, as my head hits the roof and in my vision there is nothing but bonnet behind the gauge........

Guy at regency looked and saw the hole from the screw that was on the base of the A-Pillar and he asked me why the boost guage was removed -> saying it is legal to have it there. Just not anything further up the pillar. So you can put it where the A-Pillar meets the dash, but not further up the A'PIllar. Cause in that case if its further up the A-pillar then in an accident there is a possibility of it hurting/killing someone

An old post of mine from another forum, for gauges on A-pillar try looking at the ADR's (these links should work) section 18. Under section 18, a boost gauge is considered a Group II gauge -> Pressure Indicator

Having the gauges in that position is Illegal for ADR's, during a frontal impact it increases the possibility of interfering with the occupant. Gauges can be mounted on the pillar, or dash, but must not extend above the maximum point of the dash. For us that is the height of the dash cluster above the steering wheel. If you mount it in and around the steering wheel it mustn't obscure any lights or standard gauges, however in some situations i'm sure you can argue this importance. For instance my boost gauge used to obscure the speedo from 140-180 kph, not important as far as i'm concerned.

Summarise, though please read it, if the gauges are on the A-pillar but lower than the top of the steering wheel, than it will be acceptable. ie. in an accident you have to go through the steering wheel to be damaged by the gauge

btw, off topic but 18.5.1.1.2 is where it states your speedo is to be accurate to ±10% to speeds above 40kph to be acceptable.

Edited by L3nny

I think these ADR's are rediculous. I would have more other things to worry about then a guage (or any other devices mounted on the dash for that matter) potentnially going to hit me during an accident. I guess taxi drivers and cop cars with all that gear mounted on their dash would be in trouble.

Thanks for clearing those 2 items up DC GTST

my pod is now secured (again) and the boost guage is back where it belongs, lol.

I was told I cant put my guage there as it gets in the visual way and could cause an accident - funny that, as my head hits the roof and in my vision there is nothing but bonnet behind the gauge........

All good. In your case a little more humerous. Alot of people don't put the boost guage right in the corner. When its in the corner it tends to be a little (not the whole height) above the dash height, but still legal. I'm not going to argue, cops have pulled me over a few times and never said a word (did pick out my brothers Monster Tacho in the centre dash above the climate control), and when the guy at regency asked me why i REMOVED it i was almost laughing...them asking my WHY i removed a guage lol. But yeh, everything thus far is fine with the boost gauge tucked away in that corner. The guy in regency basically said imagine a ball (aka your head) and if your head cant touch it its fine where it is. Anything On the dash above the steering wheel directly is illegal (i.e. directly above).

Mum told me there were mentions of how to spot mechanical boost controllers (manual) being mentioned as they were a few police there learning how to pick out defects (motorcycle cops). Also aftermarket electrical devices were also mentioned and the wiring in which it is attached. Sorry Tangles, this isn't all for you :dry: Just listening to someone telling me at the moment in the ear. Also chopping the front bar when installing an intercooler is a no no. Hope this helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...