Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I would like to completely remove the HICAS system in my R34 GT-R (instead of just a cancel rod etc etc) because of the weight saving (20kg's?) and the benefits in handling but am curious to know the procedure for R34 GT-R's... I have read the threads which describe the R32/R33's but its not a complete removal... just cancel rods and not on an R34 GT-R...

Im guessing that it would be pretty much the same, (Ie - remove the rear steering arm, fluid resuviour tank/lines & motor in the boot) but I am interested to know of other R34 GT-R owners who have done this before...

Cheers,

Edited by xanavinismo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281675-complete-r34-gt-r-hicas-removal/
Share on other sites

umm its not the same as a 32 at all as it's not a hydraulic system. there are no lines to the front of the car or solenoid in the engine bay to worry about. the resoviour in the boot is for attessa not hicas.

as for the actual hicas rack - the lock washer option locks the standard rack in place, or you can get a hicas lock bar to replace the standard motor. If you really want to remove it altogether you would need to convert it to an s13 style setup with tie rods instead of a hicas rack....there is some information of how we did this in our racecar in the Builds section

umm its not the same as a 32 at all as it's not a hydraulic system. there are no lines to the front of the car or solenoid in the engine bay to worry about. the resoviour in the boot is for attessa not hicas.

as for the actual hicas rack - the lock washer option locks the standard rack in place, or you can get a hicas lock bar to replace the standard motor. If you really want to remove it altogether you would need to convert it to an s13 style setup with tie rods instead of a hicas rack....there is some information of how we did this in our racecar in the Builds section

Thanks for your info duncan. So the hicas motor does weigh a fare bit? Also, does that mean I wouldnt have the problem of having the HICAS light coming on because there is no solenoid in the engine bay?

Cheers,

Glen

I found these Midori Hicas Cancellers... it looks like it will save a heap load of weight!

Link: http://www.midoriseibi.co.jp/tuning/others...-canceller.html

Also appears that they bolt up to the standard mounts where the Hicas normally goes with no bar in between what so ever. Although more expensive than a 'Cancel Rod' these seem like the closest thing to complete removal of Hicas without much fuss!

However, has anyone ever used these?

post-38738-1250344770_thumb.jpg

Edited by xanavinismo

yeah, but the brace doesnt get rid of the hicas unit itself so no real weight reduction.

just googling 'midori hicas canceller', there seems to be somewhat of a review on the product: http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/424045...0193/parts.aspx

not much info, but its got a pic and looks like what you're after.

  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
    • One way of putting the fuel surge idea to rest, is that even when in neutral/clutch in or free revving it still has the same issue, it can’t even get to limiter (7800) so to me that says it can’t be g force, I’m not trying to argue I just want to find the f&$king issue 😡
×
×
  • Create New...