Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

my girlfriend got some wheels done for $25 each (sandblasted and coated) there pretty decent as well.

they were done somewhere in lonsdale. i think it was lonsdale power coaters or something, granted, it could have been AAA. i have no idea

  • 2 years later...

Hate to revive an old topic, but has anyone had some work done recently they can suggest?

certainly, marshall powder coaters in wingfield. the guy is super cool, he actually likes doing car parts because he does a hell of a lot of fencing and it gets boring lol.... he also has a sandblaster mate who works a few streets over, so you can get it all done at the same place.

oh, and it doesnt cost much at all! I had a bunch of pieces done (engine covers, strut braces, diverter etc) for under $150 incl sandblasting

-D

I had some stuff done by Morestel Powder Coaters in North Plympton. I has happy with them.

My engine covers are being done in candy blue by them next week ! $30 a cover very decent price indeed, will have to see how they turn out.

went to a powder coaters, had the worst wheel with gutter rash to quote from but its not as bad as it looks, guy said he would have to hand file it, but from my toolmakers point of view its barelt past the paint besides the edge of the rim. Guess i will call around a bit more. Thanks for the suggestions so far.

certainly, marshall powder coaters in wingfield. the guy is super cool, he actually likes doing car parts because he does a hell of a lot of fencing and it gets boring lol.... he also has a sandblaster mate who works a few streets over, so you can get it all done at the same place.

oh, and it doesnt cost much at all! I had a bunch of pieces done (engine covers, strut braces, diverter etc) for under $150 incl sandblasting

-D

+1. Pretty rad dude running the joint. Good prices too.

And Art Metal Coatings in Holden Hill get a recommendation from me too.

Had my rims powder coated a few weeks ago by

Edwardstown Powdercoating

Called a few local places in adelaide, and these guys by far were the cheapest and had the quickest turn around.

The rims came out looking awsome.

Very friendly guys too.

Thinking I will go with Edwardstown too - Most conveniant for me and not badly priced - found cheaper but sometimes you get what you pay for. My only problem now is they asked if I wanted a clear coat over the silver.....

well, got my covers back from EDITED

can certainly say for anyone looking, do not even consider them

i was told 30 bucks a cover and itd take two days,

dropped em off monday, they laugh at me on tuesday and say it takes over a week to do them.

i got them back today somehow, huh.gif

they said i can only take my covers when i pay 200 CASH.

me being in a rush to get my car running didnt even think of them over charging me by 80 bucks

i told them to tape up my breather connections, they didnt

the paint work is f*&king crap.

rocker covers fade from light to dark from one end to the other, valley cover the opposite direction.

3 covers need re-doing

anyway

hope i can somehow get my money back

doubtful.

anyone know what i can do in this situation?

seeing as i have no receipt or written quote.

well, got my covers back from EDITED

can certainly say for anyone looking, do not even consider them

i was told 30 bucks a cover and itd take two days,

dropped em off monday, they laugh at me on tuesday and say it takes over a week to do them.

i got them back today somehow, huh.gif

they said i can only take my covers when i pay 200 CASH.

me being in a rush to get my car running didnt even think of them over charging me by 80 bucks

i told them to tape up my breather connections, they didnt

the paint work is f*&king crap.

rocker covers fade from light to dark from one end to the other, valley cover the opposite direction.

3 covers need re-doing

anyway

hope i can somehow get my money back

doubtful.

anyone know what i can do in this situation?

seeing as i have no receipt or written quote.

:(

Wow, that really sucks to hear. I had a had a good experience with them, and so has Luke_ENR34, which was why I went with them.

Did you pay cash or card? I am guessing cash since you said "they said i can only take my covers when i pay 200 CASH", in which case I would have asked for a receipt. If you paid card then you have a money trail you can use to go to the ACCC with maybe.

However if it was painted it wasn't their handy work, but should still liable for it as they suggested to use the painters, and organized it for you. Maybe speak to the ACCC anyway and see what can and can't be done.

They said they don't take eftpos. rang them up then told them about the crap paint job the response ' you get that in the paint' asked why I was charged 80 bucks more. ' it's a 250 buck job you got it cheap because it requires two coats - sparkle and blue. I originally was quoted 120 for the job where did this extra money come from ? they stuffed me around all week . I just hung up. I need 3 covers re done. Waste of money.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...