Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

im kinda new to the skyline scene, and certainly my knowledge is very limited. I was wondering whats a good coilover kit that wont cost arm and a leg for a R34 GT-T (Coupe). Be sure to shitcan the shit coilover kits so i can stay away from them =D Ive only so far looked @ the pedders extreme XA coilover kit for the R34GTT Coupes so i havent gotton very far in my research =[.

THankx

Az

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282111-r34-gt-t-coilover-kits/
Share on other sites

unfortunately mate if you want good suspension your going to have to pay for it. if you want good brand new ones your looking at around $2,000. id be looking at tein superstreets they are what i wanted but i settled for second hand nismo s-tune instead. also it makes it more expensive at the moment because our dollar is weaker at the moment. you could also look at 2nd hand but then it is risky and you wont be sure if its good until you test it.

edit: i forgot to mention you might want to do a search in this section as well theres plenty of info that should point you in the right direction. but just for starters there are alot better ones than pedders. :(

well i know the aussie tein superstreets are changed to suit our roads, and then the jap versions will be a bit stiffer. but i know a few people that preferred the jap versions more.

im just going by what people have said and experienced because i havnt been in a car with them myself.

yeah, i've got bilstein shocks with whiteline springs. great setup (with adjustable swaybars, sus geometry kits as well)

if you haven't already, do the swaybars front/rear FIRST, then look at coilovers/springs.shocks.

  • 1 month later...

I have HKS coilovers in mine (sorry dunno which exact model) but they are pretty damn stiff and not really suited to alll of our roads here in Perth. But I think its a case of what you want, I like my car handling well and I don't mind a bumpy ride so thats good for me if you want something a lil softer, go the TEIN superstreets. If you want something that will give you great performance look Jap.

  • 1 month later...

I had silk roads rma8's in my s15 with a few other bits and pieces that was a DREAM to drive as the name suggests SILK such a smooth ride but so nimble, handled like it was on rails!

iv just placed my order today for some HSD HR's for my 34 4door cant wait herd nothing but good words! Also agree with skidjap a little bit steep but all good

Edited by Volk34

on the lookout for coils as well recently and the cheapest i came across is D2 (about $1.4k fully adj and has pillowtops), im considering greddy type S (2.8k fitted), tein super street for about 2.3k delivered and blistein PSS9... anyone care to shed some lights on the mentioned few? would be good for AZ and myself since we're in the market for new coils. :)

Just bought the Teins Superstreets after using Nismo R-Tunes for 4 years. One word, the Nismo is way much better than the Teins for performance and also probably can handle longer in the track. Teins is very very soft to my liking and cannot seem to understand why it needs 16 settings when anything above 5 clicks (from hardest setting) is way to soft to be considered performance coilovers. Do they really have Bilstein PSS9 for the R34GTT, that would be a nice shocks to invest in....anyone tried them before?

Just bought the Teins Superstreets after using Nismo R-Tunes for 4 years. One word, the Nismo is way much better than the Teins for performance and also probably can handle longer in the track. Teins is very very soft to my liking and cannot seem to understand why it needs 16 settings when anything above 5 clicks (from hardest setting) is way to soft to be considered performance coilovers. Do they really have Bilstein PSS9 for the R34GTT, that would be a nice shocks to invest in....anyone tried them before?

The PSS9 kit is actually designed for the R33/34GTR, so you can use it on the R34GTT. The only issue on the R33/34GT is that the rear springs ratea are rediculous as they were specified by the Japanaese Bilstein Distributor. They are almost double the rate that they need to be. On a R34GTT I would recommend also taking some spring rate out of the front, due to the lighter weight of the 2wd. The shock damping is OK, it will handle the change in spring rates easily, it has the usual Bilstein sophisticated valving and the adjustment is meaningful and effective.

Cheers

Gary

The PSS9 kit is actually designed for the R33/34GTR, so you can use it on the R34GTT. The only issue on the R33/34GT is that the rear springs ratea are rediculous as they were specified by the Japanaese Bilstein Distributor. They are almost double the rate that they need to be. On a R34GTT I would recommend also taking some spring rate out of the front, due to the lighter weight of the 2wd. The shock damping is OK, it will handle the change in spring rates easily, it has the usual Bilstein sophisticated valving and the adjustment is meaningful and effective.

Cheers

Gary

Thxs SidneyKid for the feedback. I just wondering whether the PSS9 front height adjustment is sufficient since the GTR shocks is usually shorter. Previously found a 2nd hand unit HKS Hypermax II (GTR spec), fitted it but the front was too low plus after raising the height (springload was compress). That's why from now on I hardly look at GTR spec shocks anymore.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...