Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah i think its just hitting the rubber and comes back down, mine does that sometimes, but not for ages.

just like some roller doors, if their stuck they will go back up.

S is for Manual . and i think V is for rwd ? can remeber now all messed up

yeah i think its just hitting the rubber and comes back down, mine does that sometimes, but not for ages.

just like some roller doors, if their stuck they will go back up.

S is for Manual . and i think V is for rwd ? can remeber now all messed up

V is definitely not rwd. Both my stageas have been RS FOUR V's and both are AWD.

RWD would just be RS (ie. without the FOUR).

Not sure what the V stands for - I always thought it was either a sports or luxury variant...cant be much in it though.

V is definitely not rwd. Both my stageas have been RS FOUR V's and both are AWD.

RWD would just be RS (ie. without the FOUR).

Not sure what the V stands for - I always thought it was either a sports or luxury variant...cant be much in it though.

I always thought that V stood for auto

I've got auto up too - Dave, you've been ripped off!

The Wiki on the Stagea has a good (and surprisingly accurate!) description of the model line up.

My S1 RS Four has auto up as well.

Anyway, nice stag man, i love them in black :D

It's basically a Ford stud pattern, 5x114.3mm, but a lot of other cars use it too.

If you're getting new wheels, MAKE SURE you have the same rolling diameter at the front and rear so you don't stuff your transfer case - that would be a very expensive fix!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, I don't believe the M35 uses a deadhead system.
    • Have you done your thinking backwards? 3 bar, 43.5 psi pressure drop being the presumed specification for an injector, means you need 3 bar upstream when they are firing into atmospheric pressure, and more upstream pressure than that when on boost (you add your boost to your rail pressure to maintain 3 bar across the injector) and you need..... less pressure upstream when you have vacuum in the manifold. So, presuming that you're idling at -10 psi, then you only need ~23 psi in the rail. I realise that I did not need to say all of that to you specifically Matt, once you'd realised your mistake. It's mostly there for complete clarity for others.
    • Have you reached out to the guys at Spool Imports? They are a Ross dealer, I can imagine they would have the rings just sitting on the shelf (I could be wrong).  
    • There's one for sale at Grand Auto Wreckers in Lonsdale (SA), for .... let's suggest the sum they're asking for will make you cry. You may have to embrace the idea of modifying the rear subframe to accept some other diff. You could probably find a way to wangle a shortnose into there, with a custom rear adapter and some sort of shenanigans to relocate the front mounts. This has probably already been done by others, so there might be some guidance available as to how easy/impossible it is, out there in the googles. But you possibly needn't restrict yourself to Nissan diffs if you're going to contemplate that. There are similarish Toyota diffs, possibly some Euro ones, possibly some Seppo ones.
    • The ball joint taper and arm taper have to match angle and diameter, but just doing the bushes is a much better option.....seems like the industry moved to "it is cheaper to replace the whole arm than take on the labour for changing this bushes", glad the aftermarket supports it
×
×
  • Create New...