Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'd rather attempt to eat my own vomit than even be seen in a R33 4 door lol. They look like a Camry with a facelift :)

i don't think that i can agree with this statement. i think you are being offensive to camry's.

they are much better looking cars than r33 sedans.

could also try and save a bit more and look at buying/importing an autech s15.

been looking around to see what to get after i finish my s13 and have found some decently priced autechs in sydney. i must admit, though, some going around have been violated with some interesting mods.... who puts a turbo timer on an n/a? :)

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

ke70 corolla? If you keep an eye out you the random cheap sprinter comes from time to time. keep an eye out on nissansilvia.com cars are allways heaps cheaper on there.

panda

Edited by PandaR33

you can pick up ke70 corollas pretty cheap if you know where to look. looking on forums is the worse place to find a ke70, because that's where all the young people are trying to sell them and they know what they are worth. you need to find one being sold by an older person as they will sell them dirt cheap. there was a stock standard grandpa spec (so it was tidy) one for sale around the corner from me a few months back for $1500, still registered with RWC. if i had any money at the time i would've bought it.

I'd pick the 34 over the 33 due to being a bit fresher and nicer interior.

Other options if the NA Supra is out of the picture.

300zx (sure people are paying them out, Couple of mates here have had them (both NA), one stock, one lightly modified, neither have any problems and with a few subtle mods they look awesome.

S13/180. Stick with the handling mods.

Could be flamed here. but

Toyota MR2. (Don't see a lot these days but might be worth a look)

Honda with VTEC. (Very rice, very boy racer, Front wheel drive. But high revs)

Early/mid RX7, with NA rotary (lol i'm gonna get flamed bad)

  • 4 months later...

wow, interesting read guys. I've spent a while looking for a car for my bro who's on his red p's.

You might have to compromise on the rwd if you want a really fun car.

The best thing I've come up with is an mx6 (which no-one has mentioned?). The ms6 is light, 1200kg, with 123kW (good power to weight). They're set up pretty tight stock and you could pull it up to 160kW with clean air. A bodykit of any type will help out the shocking fish look. I drove one a few months ago with a bum gearbox, it was still fun and nippy, and the sound was surprisingly enjoyable. Get the 2.6L v6, do it up then leave ppl stunned when you disappear. And lets face it, fwd is a bit safer, so if you pick a car based solely on rwd even though there were other better options you'll hate yourself if you drift a bit far or swerve to avoid something and write it off.

The old impreza's have a really good power to weight ratio and awd which would be really fun.

Also Honda prelude's and integras are worth a look. These may all be fwd but a tight revvy fwd will feel amazing coming from a lancer (or whatever you're driving, cant remember lol). In the days of the integra type-r, i read a review comparing it to the evo and wrx sti. The outcome was the best drivers car was the integra, even though it had fwd it was so tight and responsive.

300zx NA will probably struggle with the 1700kg its lugging round

180sx NA are underpowered but can look so good

200sx expensive and tho the sr20 is a great engine is must struggle sometimes with the low capacity and no turbo

supra expensive but a mate of mine has made the air flow really clean and pulls the same kW as a stock r34 gtt, and regularly out drags them. which is upsetting cos i have an r34 gtt.

and finally the awd mitsubishi magna listed above would be worth a test drive too. with its power-to-weight ration on an NA v6 its potentially a good fun car, and a wolf in sheeps clothing (ie: cops won't notice it, unlike most of the other cars mentioned in this forum)

just my thoughts anyways

... ok i was wrong about the 200sx autech edition, but they're rare aren't they? like only 1000 ever made? saw 2 expensive (>20grand) ones on drive.com but if you find one grab it, that'd be good fun

otherwise the s15 NA is down to 126kW, which is still great in a 1200kg car, but expensive

2nd gen liberty gt-b would be 123kW for 1422kg

1st gen impreza 123kW for 1220kg

The bilstein setup would give improved handling, but both have the same engine power (and possible the same engine). That being said, minor changes to an engine can make all the difference, you'd have to drive them and see what you think. There are other things like drivability and how the car looks that might change your mind

Liberty is a much better car than the impreza, and its actually 100kg lighter than you quoted and the handling is superb. You can get about 100kW at all fours with light mods, they can be quite snappy and bonus of AWD.

http://www.redbook.com.au/used-cars/detail...id=127676BD2518

I've seen a fair few Autechs around, just gotta wait and snap one up, yeah they're priced similar to the turbo's, I've seen them around $15-20k But they get the 6 speed etc and with around 120kW at the rears + that weight, they'd be worth holding out for.

Edited by SKiT_R31

i just used the wiki weight, and upon revisiting saw the word "max" next to it.

That link is pretty cheap. If you can get something fun for 7grand or less you're laughing. That's why I suggested the mx6: buy an ok one for 5gs, spend another 3 or 4 and have a tight, light, fast car.

That autech's probably going to be the fastest you can get stock on your P's. 150kW is insane, actually its pretty similar to a NA supra but weighs 200kg less.

After you buy this you can look forward to the turbo decisions: do you go skyline or other, do you get an r34 gtt or an r32 gtr for your dollars, stock-ish or modified, daily drive/weekender/racer. good, fun, poor times

edit:

actually, what is the quickest (not cheapest or most fun) P plate legal car?

Edited by Galois

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...