Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looking for good quality low profile floor jack and jack stands. already have sourced Jack pads specific for the car.

Anyone have a supplier for these. after some advice re best fit for my car so would prefer to talk with a 'local guy' not buy over the net.

Cheers

Wow snap on tools are usually pretty expensive no? but uh autobarn and repco usually have regular sales on that sort of thing might want to check that out

EDIT: :down: I just noticed what car you have........Drools

i got one from DIYtools.com.au, $300 and came day after payment.. its an alloy, low profile jobby that moves around very easy..

check out waranaimports.com or .com.au for alloy jack stands, $99 for 2.

I got one of these puppies from Bursons for $380ish trade price.

45329_tja15-ql-1[ekm]561x280[ekm].5_trolley_jack.jpg

not ultra low, but does the job, and its a LOT more rugged than my old aluminium jack which shat itself after some heavy use.

i have a snap on one its freaking awesome....

Hows the second mortgage treating you? haha.

I bouight a cheapie one from trade tools, nicely low up front, but at the back, it get's high. It's an Omega, i think up front it's 63mm. Freaken heavy at around 40kgs tho, but pretty sturdy.

jack.jpg

not being ... how do i put it... errr.... one sided or sounding like a total wanker, but my jack is alot better designed than any of the ones above (seriously no offence intended)

i have a hsv gts that was 80mm high at the skirts and i could jack that up easy as pie... i work on alot of drift cars and the like so it was worth me spending the money

yes they may have an approach measuremt around 70mm but only at the absolute tip of the jack.... which in most cases renders the jack pointless if you have a very low car as most jacking points and inbound toward the centre of the car 100-200mm even more at crossmember or diff.....

the version i have was the most expensive but was the only one i saw any point in .... it has a 60ish?? mm aproach height and maintains that height for about 400mm and has a very very light lift height and rate (6 pumps to full height) because of this length

yes i am very biased... but for a very good reason

Edited by WHITE R32
not being ... how do i put it... errr.... one sided or sounding like a total wanker, but my jack is alot better designed than any of the ones above (seriously no offence intended)

i have a hsv gts that was 80mm high at the skirts and i could jack that up easy as pie... i work on alot of drift cars and the like so it was worth me spending the money

yes they may have an approach measuremt around 70mm but only at the absolute tip of the jack.... which in most cases renders the jack pointless if you have a very low car as most jacking points and inbound toward the centre of the car 100-200mm even more at crossmember or diff.....

the version i have was the most expensive but was the only one i saw any point in .... it has a 60ish?? mm aproach height and maintains that height for about 400mm and has a very very light lift height and rate (6 pumps to full height) because of this length

yes i am very biased... but for a very good reason

wow, you really are an insensitive, single sided wanker, you really hurt me there. haha. Your jack sounds awesome, could never be able to justify getting one though. What you said is exactly the problem with mine, low at the jacking bit but going towards the pump bit it usually catches skirts/bars, sucks for cars with jacking points on subframes, etc.

Hows the second mortgage treating you? haha.

I bouight a cheapie one from trade tools, nicely low up front, but at the back, it get's high. It's an Omega, i think up front it's 63mm. Freaken heavy at around 40kgs tho, but pretty sturdy.

jack.jpg

haha nice, expensive stuff but it's worth it, from what my dad tells me LOL

All the 'low profile' ones i've ever seen are low at the front but get just as high as others towards the back, so they really aren't that much better anyway. I'm still content with driving the car up on my chunks of wood and going from there. Until I have a spare $800 that is ;-)

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...