Jump to content
SAU Community

Low Profile Floor Jacks And Jack Stands

handbrake

By handbrake,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

handbrake Veteran

handbrake

Posted
Posted

looking for good quality low profile floor jack and jack stands. already have sourced Jack pads specific for the car.

Anyone have a supplier for these. after some advice re best fit for my car so would prefer to talk with a 'local guy' not buy over the net.

Cheers

JamesK Experienced

JamesK

Posted
Posted

Wow snap on tools are usually pretty expensive no? but uh autobarn and repco usually have regular sales on that sort of thing might want to check that out

EDIT: :down: I just noticed what car you have........Drools

NZM.031 Grand Master

NZM.031

Posted
Posted

i got one from DIYtools.com.au, $300 and came day after payment.. its an alloy, low profile jobby that moves around very easy..

check out waranaimports.com or .com.au for alloy jack stands, $99 for 2.

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

I got one of these puppies from Bursons for $380ish trade price.

45329_tja15-ql-1[ekm]561x280[ekm].5_trolley_jack.jpg

not ultra low, but does the job, and its a LOT more rugged than my old aluminium jack which shat itself after some heavy use.

hojak Proficient

hojak

Posted
Posted
i have a snap on one its freaking awesome....

Hows the second mortgage treating you? haha.

I bouight a cheapie one from trade tools, nicely low up front, but at the back, it get's high. It's an Omega, i think up front it's 63mm. Freaken heavy at around 40kgs tho, but pretty sturdy.

jack.jpg

WHITE R32 Grand Master

WHITE R32

Posted
Posted (edited)

not being ... how do i put it... errr.... one sided or sounding like a total wanker, but my jack is alot better designed than any of the ones above (seriously no offence intended)

i have a hsv gts that was 80mm high at the skirts and i could jack that up easy as pie... i work on alot of drift cars and the like so it was worth me spending the money

yes they may have an approach measuremt around 70mm but only at the absolute tip of the jack.... which in most cases renders the jack pointless if you have a very low car as most jacking points and inbound toward the centre of the car 100-200mm even more at crossmember or diff.....

the version i have was the most expensive but was the only one i saw any point in .... it has a 60ish?? mm aproach height and maintains that height for about 400mm and has a very very light lift height and rate (6 pumps to full height) because of this length

yes i am very biased... but for a very good reason

Edited by WHITE R32
hojak Proficient

hojak

Posted
Posted
not being ... how do i put it... errr.... one sided or sounding like a total wanker, but my jack is alot better designed than any of the ones above (seriously no offence intended)

i have a hsv gts that was 80mm high at the skirts and i could jack that up easy as pie... i work on alot of drift cars and the like so it was worth me spending the money

yes they may have an approach measuremt around 70mm but only at the absolute tip of the jack.... which in most cases renders the jack pointless if you have a very low car as most jacking points and inbound toward the centre of the car 100-200mm even more at crossmember or diff.....

the version i have was the most expensive but was the only one i saw any point in .... it has a 60ish?? mm aproach height and maintains that height for about 400mm and has a very very light lift height and rate (6 pumps to full height) because of this length

yes i am very biased... but for a very good reason

wow, you really are an insensitive, single sided wanker, you really hurt me there. haha. Your jack sounds awesome, could never be able to justify getting one though. What you said is exactly the problem with mine, low at the jacking bit but going towards the pump bit it usually catches skirts/bars, sucks for cars with jacking points on subframes, etc.

impact_blue Grand Master

impact_blue

Posted
Posted
Hows the second mortgage treating you? haha.

I bouight a cheapie one from trade tools, nicely low up front, but at the back, it get's high. It's an Omega, i think up front it's 63mm. Freaken heavy at around 40kgs tho, but pretty sturdy.

jack.jpg

haha nice, expensive stuff but it's worth it, from what my dad tells me LOL

All the 'low profile' ones i've ever seen are low at the front but get just as high as others towards the back, so they really aren't that much better anyway. I'm still content with driving the car up on my chunks of wood and going from there. Until I have a spare $800 that is ;-)

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...