Jump to content
SAU Community

Steering Randomly Goes Heavy - R33 Skyline

Dean_HR31
 Share

Recommended Posts

Dean_HR31 Mentor

Dean_HR31

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Referring to my R33, the steering randomly goes heavy when it feels like it. I think it normally happens after drifting, or giving the car some general love.

Im thinking maybe the sensitibity sensor.computer is playing up and gets confused when the car is thrown around and then makes the steering go heavy...? You normally goes light again shortly afterwards.

Can somebody please advise what this could be as I really need it fixed before winton.

Oh, and I have a hicas lock bar fitted, tien castor rods, sway bars, solid cradle bushes, adjustable arms etc. Not sure how thats relevant but im sure the hicas lock bar may have some relevance to the issue?

Your urgent advice is much appreciated.

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

Sounds like problem with HICAS. As a temporary fix just pull the HICAS fuse and it shouldn't give you any problems.. usually ideal to remove HICAS completly (and whatever lines are left) as well as lockbar it down

Dean_HR31 Mentor

Dean_HR31

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok I just noticed my first post made no sense what so ever because i wrote it all in under 32 seconds at work.

In a nut shell. My hicas system has been removed and replaced with a HICAS lock bar. I need to find out why my steering randomly goes heavy and am thinking it must relate to the speed sensitivity sensor and not the hicas because the HICAS has been removed...?

I have done a search, but havnt found what im looking for because most people with SLIGHTLY similar issues are having them with their HICAS system still present where as mine is removed.

Thanks

Dean

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted (edited)

There is, but there are other sensors involved as well, and other causes, might just start with the easy stuff first.. seeing as he hasn't said that he has done a diagnostic either.. Hicas unit will still be there, it modulates the steering assist solenoid, just the hicas actuator on the rear chassis has been removed.

Edited by heller44
PsYLoR Collaborator

PsYLoR

Posted
Posted

Ive pretty much got the same set up with Hicas lock in my 33, My steering occasionally goes harder but I put it down to my speedo being intermittent and this causing the speed sensitive steering to fail. Not sure???

I'll drive along and the steering will be hard (but not hard like no power steering at all) but then as soon as my speedo comes to life the steering goes light. (This happened to me before i had hicas lock & hicas diag comes up clean)

So im wondering if its to do with either the speedo sensor signal or as mad082 said....

i think there is also a solenoid that alters the weight of the steering (controls the fluid flow).

Ive changed power steering fluid, checkd for air bubbles and still get randomness. :S

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted (edited)

I don't have access to the body wiring schematics for an r33, if you do I could suggest some points to start looking.. I'm not certain how the speed signal is routed or generated in the r33. Only thing I would suggest is to start by pulling the cluster out and inspecting the connectors and harness, there, on the attachment at the sensor on the gearbox, and if it is like the r32 where there is a bunch of connectors near the engine bay fuse box as the speed signal may go in the same loom as the neutral switch and reverse switch..

Edited by heller44
helltd Collaborator

helltd

Posted
Posted

My 32 constantly stays heavy,not like no power steering but still heavy enough,changedfluid,ps pump and belt and still the same,might just tinker with the wiring before winton,not hard to drive but a bit lighter would be an advantage

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

R32's do it when the speedo cable/sensor whatever fails.

Could be something to do with that. Its tied in with the speedo sensor and the hicas thats all i remember, but feels really hard and i think if u put little force constantly on ur steering wheel it will kick back slightly, hard to explain

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...