Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Referring to my R33, the steering randomly goes heavy when it feels like it. I think it normally happens after drifting, or giving the car some general love.

Im thinking maybe the sensitibity sensor.computer is playing up and gets confused when the car is thrown around and then makes the steering go heavy...? You normally goes light again shortly afterwards.

Can somebody please advise what this could be as I really need it fixed before winton.

Oh, and I have a hicas lock bar fitted, tien castor rods, sway bars, solid cradle bushes, adjustable arms etc. Not sure how thats relevant but im sure the hicas lock bar may have some relevance to the issue?

Your urgent advice is much appreciated.

Sounds like problem with HICAS. As a temporary fix just pull the HICAS fuse and it shouldn't give you any problems.. usually ideal to remove HICAS completly (and whatever lines are left) as well as lockbar it down

Ok I just noticed my first post made no sense what so ever because i wrote it all in under 32 seconds at work.

In a nut shell. My hicas system has been removed and replaced with a HICAS lock bar. I need to find out why my steering randomly goes heavy and am thinking it must relate to the speed sensitivity sensor and not the hicas because the HICAS has been removed...?

I have done a search, but havnt found what im looking for because most people with SLIGHTLY similar issues are having them with their HICAS system still present where as mine is removed.

Thanks

Dean

There is, but there are other sensors involved as well, and other causes, might just start with the easy stuff first.. seeing as he hasn't said that he has done a diagnostic either.. Hicas unit will still be there, it modulates the steering assist solenoid, just the hicas actuator on the rear chassis has been removed.

Edited by heller44

Ive pretty much got the same set up with Hicas lock in my 33, My steering occasionally goes harder but I put it down to my speedo being intermittent and this causing the speed sensitive steering to fail. Not sure???

I'll drive along and the steering will be hard (but not hard like no power steering at all) but then as soon as my speedo comes to life the steering goes light. (This happened to me before i had hicas lock & hicas diag comes up clean)

So im wondering if its to do with either the speedo sensor signal or as mad082 said....

i think there is also a solenoid that alters the weight of the steering (controls the fluid flow).

Ive changed power steering fluid, checkd for air bubbles and still get randomness. :S

I don't have access to the body wiring schematics for an r33, if you do I could suggest some points to start looking.. I'm not certain how the speed signal is routed or generated in the r33. Only thing I would suggest is to start by pulling the cluster out and inspecting the connectors and harness, there, on the attachment at the sensor on the gearbox, and if it is like the r32 where there is a bunch of connectors near the engine bay fuse box as the speed signal may go in the same loom as the neutral switch and reverse switch..

Edited by heller44

My 32 constantly stays heavy,not like no power steering but still heavy enough,changedfluid,ps pump and belt and still the same,might just tinker with the wiring before winton,not hard to drive but a bit lighter would be an advantage

R32's do it when the speedo cable/sensor whatever fails.

Could be something to do with that. Its tied in with the speedo sensor and the hicas thats all i remember, but feels really hard and i think if u put little force constantly on ur steering wheel it will kick back slightly, hard to explain

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I sense an out of control build thread coming up lololol. That 450kW goal will end up being 600 to 700kW LOL.
    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
×
×
  • Create New...