Jump to content
SAU Community

Stag Feels Slagish On Take Off

southern_tango
 Share

Recommended Posts

southern_tango Proficient

southern_tango

Posted
Posted

From a couple of days on,the stag been feeling a little slow when I accelerate from a complete stop,it feels like it takes a couple of secs.then the revs go up ,the turbo starts to boost an everything goes normal ,until next stop...

Anybody had suffer that before???Any idea or info is welcome...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285565-stag-feels-slagish-on-take-off/
Share on other sites
Stagea_Neo Experienced

Stagea_Neo

Posted
Posted

ditto.

manual - slipping clutch

auto - bands need adjusting / need a service with new trans fluid

worst case, the torque converter is on its way out.

.........

to add some humour 'slagish', does it spit a lot of slag at other cars :)

i know you mean 'sluggish' ;)

southern_tango Proficient

southern_tango

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok...sorry for my mistake...my car is a bit slug going out the lights...it's auto,and took it for a ride on tiptronic..all felt ok...

BTW where are you in the Se Burbs,Stagea _Neo?Good to see more stags in this side of the planet :)

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted
Ok...sorry for my mistake...my car is a bit slug going out the lights...it's auto,and took it for a ride on tiptronic..all felt ok...

BTW where are you in the Se Burbs,Stagea _Neo?Good to see more stags in this side of the planet :)

Do the series 2's have a cable throttle body or drive by wire?

I have a similar issue with the M35, the ecu isnt giving me full throttle at low revs, it opens fully at around 3000 revs. I am planning a manual throttle conversion, I just hope the ecu doesnt get upset.

prince_skyline Community Regular

prince_skyline

Posted
Posted
Do the series 2's have a cable throttle body or drive by wire?

I have a similar issue with the M35, the ecu isnt giving me full throttle at low revs, it opens fully at around 3000 revs. I am planning a manual throttle conversion, I just hope the ecu doesnt get upset.

Scooty - mine is the same ever since the highflow was put back in. Notice it quite a bit - especially when cold! Hit 3,000 and it is a treat

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Are you using a boost controller? If not try bypassing the solenoid with the ten minute boost mod (post #40):

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja....html&st=20

Or a new set of copper plugs

Stagea_Neo Experienced

Stagea_Neo

Posted
Posted

Yep in the se burbs, near the burv.

Apparently there's a silver s1 or s2 near nunna swimming pools, my mates keep thinking its me :). Other than that, black s2 down Highbury rd recently.

Hardly see any stags out this way.

Back on topic....

Another thought is the vacuum modulator on the trans itself, get under and check for

leaking/cracked/loose hoses. (im not sure if modulator is correct term)

Scotty nm35 - nup cable accelerator, no drive by wire.

RBRyan - possibly in snow mode and the light not lit up at the switch on the console?

Or maybe the wires under the console are loose where they connect to the

snow mode plug?

Kidafa - Never known a trans ecu to have limp mode as such.

The main ecu yes. Anyone know how much the main ecu can

change the way the transmission ecu operates?

ie. shift point or engaging full lock up on the torque convertor.

Kiwi - Probably not advisable to increase boost pressure if there is an underlying

issue. Might make things worse.

ie. if it's the torque converter on the way out, it may make it fail sooner.

_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted

Trans ECU can go to limp mode if a shift solenoid is playing up, they will lock out of gears etc.

Take it to RVO, get them to plug into it for diagnostics... cheap insurance IMO.

I am in Toorak, work in the city, am out to mt dande a few nights a week, and geelong once/twice a month... See a black stag up mt dande a lot lately.

andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted

Do you guys get an indicator on your dash that you are in Snow or Synchro mode?

On the M35 you get the 4 wheel symbol with the drive shafts linking them to show you are in either mode.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • sonicii
      Could it really happen......

      By sonicii · Posted

      I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • MBS206
      Could it really happen......

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...