Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The guys that fitted this kit, did you get an increase in performance?

i would also like to know what performance gains people have gotten with this kit..

Is it much more laggy?

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

wouldnt the GTR cooler be better than this as its already that size if not bigger and flow better due to the bigger end tanks??

jet thank mate!!!! i just install the intercooler look mad feel mad....very nice looking thank...dude

so you just installed it?

Can you feel the difference... much lag?

I would imagin there would be a bit more lag from an rb20?

Ming come out for few runs this weekend.

We got DC5, 200sx, and Supra TT and maybe few others.

druzilla32, whether there is lag or not really depends on what sort of turbo you have and how your ECU is tuned. Its got nothign to do with the intercooler. I dont have any lag problem at all because my car is tuned.

The intercooler makes your pod sounds louder and nicer. It does not change the sound of your BOV.

I can show you mine if you live in sydney.

the only mods i have are catback (get my dump/front and highflow cat in a day or 2) pod filter and boost at 14psi. I dont mind if the turbo slowly shits itself as i plan to go bigger. I am aiming for about 180rwkw.

If i get a reading of 14psi without the fmic.. Will i get a higher reading after its hooked up, say 16psi? Should i turn the boost down then or is it ok cuz the turbo is still only pushing about 14psi..

I want it at about .9bar as i dont often hit boost during the day and at night rarely go over .6bar

If your using a bleed valve you will have to turn it down because the standard cooler drops a few psi where as the hybrid wont (i assume) So if you are running 14psi you turbo is proberby pushing 16/17psi just to make 14psi at the engine. If you have a controller you wont nedd to worry about it.

Jet,

Would you be able to summarise the DIY installation please, including info on cutting the fan blades/ front bumper bar if applicable.

I need to factor in the installation cost in case I can't do it myself.

Thanks mate.

oops forgot to ask you this, Jet.

I have the factory electric fan for the A/C unit, would this need to be moved/ modified for the intercooler fitment ?

eek.. i hope not... I havent realy thought about the stuff i may need to remove.. All i knew is that i wanted a fmic.. so i got one...

I havent seen it yet.. Its getting delivered today :) Im so excited.

So yer, what has to be removed for the cooler?

Any other hints for installation you may want to share? Im gona give it a chop on the weekend.

I fitted my hybrid to my r32 last weekend the only things i needed to modify were:

1. The fanblades and shroud need to be trimmed for the top pipe to fit.

2. Both top pipe and the cooler bottom brackets were way off so i had to make my own.

3.Had to give my gtr front bar a haircut for that to fit properly too.

Other than that it was all good. Took about 8 hours and 10 beers :) It was the first one i'd done.

Well done Ronin. It took me the same time for my r33.

You car will breath much healthier now. Did you notice much power difference?

123toc

Pls go to the link below to get some picture. Although its for R33 but it will fit a r34.

https://secure-krakatoa.commercevault.com/p...OOLER%20KIT.htm

i put mine on last saturday.. started at 12 finished at 6.. That included playing a few card games and some pizza :)

I can realy notice the difference when i am by myself at night time... it seems to hold boost a lot better now.. from 4500rmp onwards its way better, + i seem to get better fuel consumption, ALSO i cant hear my car missfire anymore.

I didnt have to trim the front bar or anything. I just moved the horns up a bit.

I will post some pics of it later.. looks awesome. Thanks Jet!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...