Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I got a little curious about this, and had a few parts off so decided to weigh them on some digital scales. Now you see all these drag or race cars with absolutely everything stripped

off them. When I look at what I have measured, and thought about it, was curious as to exactly how much they were saving.

So here are the things I have weighed so far to try and get imperical about it all. This is for a 33, I assume there will be subtle differences for 32 and 34. If people have weighed these items off their cars, add them to this thread and I'll add a 32 section, etc.

33 GTS-T (series1)

========

Mirrors: 2kg x 2 = 4kg

Front Door trims: 2.5kg each x 2 = 5kg

Standard "Space Saver" spare: 14kg

Standard boot "floor" (although I have made a custom MDF floor): 2.5kg

Stock Bonnet: 18kg

Front guards - 3kg x 2 = 6kg

Whole dash structure = 7kg

Centre console = 4kg

Glovebox assembly = 2kg

Stereo equipment:

Standard amp: ~2.5kg (of course this can vary a bit)

Pair of speakers: 2kg x 2 (front+back) = 4kg

12" dual coil sub in standard sized box = 13.5kg

Extras you might carry:

Toolbox filled with misc tools: 9.5kg

Person: 70kg+(!!) get rid of them :P

Some estimates based on previous pullings out:

Rear seat: 18kg

Front seat: 18Kg

R32 (series1)

=========

Stock GTS-T bonnet: 20kg

Aircon compressor: 9kg

Rear wiper motor: 2kg

Stock intercooler: 4kg

I assume the majority of savings will come from seat removals (maybe 60kg in those items), light weight wheels (maybe 40kg?), aircon (20kg?), removal of "excessive" bodykit (30kg?) items and maybe c/f bonnet (10kg difference?). So if anybody can put up figures for them, would be great.

So well I hope this thread where people pulling various bits off their cars can put them up in this thread, and we can get a bit of a definitive guide for those looking for weight reduction savings for the drag strip, or anything else.

Unfortunately I have never been on a weigh bridge and been able to measure the weight of my 33, so its difficult to see where I'm actually startng from, but this is a start.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28670-weight-reduction/
Share on other sites

i think the bonnet(standard-> FRP/carbon) with save u 10kg.

Light weight rims with save u a few kg EACH! from just changing the stock to TE37, u save over 1xkg and handle a lot better!

and those preformance parts, light weight flywheel, forgre piston... anything under the engine bay is reducing weight. it's always the best to reduce weight from the front part.

recently i remove my FMIC and put the stock back, and i found the the car handling was improve. So anyone with is looking for a FMIC may look if there is any aluminum intercooler +pipe then buy cheap heavy cooler and mild steel pipe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28670-weight-reduction/#findComment-592599
Share on other sites

Originally posted by predator

I was trying to keep this to *serious* discussion about the issue and what is actually worth the effort to remove.. so can we please try and keep it that way? thanks.

Wasn't trying to make a joke about it. I actually thought this would back your statement about weight saving & if you read the article they highlight the gains by removal of differencent parts.

Fair enough the story a bit on the light side, but I & may be others dont really understand the true benefits of weight reduction, & most think Horsepower Gain is priority above all else.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28670-weight-reduction/#findComment-592608
Share on other sites

first, remove all the stickers. :)

Things to consider:

- the spare tyre

- back seats

- swap the driver and passenger seats with some semi-buckets and/or buckets (e.g bride brix on driver's, bride ergo's on passenger)

- remove unnecessary boom boxes in da hood

- steering wheel, swapped to something lighter. momo, buddy club, etc.

- air conditioner

- swap to light weight materials if you must, i.e. alloy, carbon fibre, aluminium materials.

that's about all i can think of right now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28670-weight-reduction/#findComment-592674
Share on other sites

Fair enough the story a bit on the light side, but I & may be others dont really understand the true benefits of weight reduction, & most think Horsepower Gain is priority above all else.

Yer, i know it does have its more serious points. But plenty of threads have been dedicated to that site. No hard feelings

If a 100kg weight reduction gives you an equivelent 20-30rwkw (i think that was a figure that has been thrown around), seems like a cheaper way to get better performance. If that 20-30rwkw costs you $200+ to get via horsepower, seems a bit silly when you can get rid of (or upgrade some items).

Bonnet reduction seems a little less than I would have thought. Feeling a carbon fibre bonnet and easily being able to lift in my hands, compared to a hefty lift of a normal bonnet. Would thing it would be more than 10kg? Anyhow, that is why i'm asking people if they have stuff off to measure it. Only takes a minute Thats the only way to tell for sure :)

I mean you don't want to get excessive unless you truly are building a drag car, but every bit helps. I know after measuring some things for example, I'd rather keep the door trims than a few other items on that list.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28670-weight-reduction/#findComment-592713
Share on other sites

If a 100kg weight reduction gives you an equivelent 20-30rwkw (i think that was a figure that has been thrown around), seems like a cheaper way to get better performance. If that 20-30rwkw costs you $200+ to get via horsepower, seems a bit silly when you can get rid of (or upgrade some items).

I'm trying to do the numbers & the cost to lose 100kg=*20-30kw gain doesn't add up when compared to common performance upgrades eg: Exhaust, cam gears, ECU, bleed valves...etc A True Carbon bonnets must be worth around $2K+ fake fibreglass ones around $1K.

Things I can think of would be:

1. Titanium Cat back exhausts

2. I generally find Manufacturers add a lot of fancy covers, slicencer & protectors to the exhaust under-carriage. Either replacing the front half of the system or if possible removng these items.

3. Wonder what all your stereo system would way.. speakers, amps, subbies, CD Changer, deck...etc

4. I'm not sure if this is true, that each litre of liquid eg: fuel, water =1kg. If correct, then I would drive around with a minimum of fuel maybe qtr tank = saving of 40-50kg. Empty the water bottle for the window washer saving 3-5 kg.

If keeping the cars looks & driving comfort isn't an issue then I would also add things like:

1. Carpets, door trims & sound deadning

2. All the crappy pieces of plastic under the guards, the under carriage, rear boot...etc

3. Spoilers, side skirts, maybe even replacing the side glass windows with that plastic stuff??

I'd assume with no real knowledge at a 50-75kg weight reduction.

Overall I still think, lighter parts = more $$$cost than simple performance upgrades. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28670-weight-reduction/#findComment-592887
Share on other sites

recently i remove my FMIC and put the stock back, and i found the the car handling was improve.

Im amazed you can pick a difference!

I remove the back seats ond parcel shelp when i go to the track, not becasue of weight but so i can mount a camera on the parcel shelf.

The back seats are very light and combined with the parcel shelf i think they would struggle to make a 15kg difference. When i had the driver/passenger seat out for stereo install, they seemed to weigh quite a bit, so some decent lightweight seats could save 20-30kgs.

If i had a R32 GTST track car i think you would be able to get close to 1000kg without driver, going to the extent of removing std fuel cell and rear boot floor and replacing with smaller fuel cell with aluminiu or carbon fibre floor etc, etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28670-weight-reduction/#findComment-592901
Share on other sites

I'm trying to do the numbers & the cost to lose 100kg=*20-30kw gain doesn't add up when compared to common performance upgrades eg: Exhaust' date=' cam gears, ECU, bleed valves...etc A True Carbon bonnets must be worth around $2K+ fake fibreglass ones around $1K.

QUOTE']

those are dry carbon, my friend bought a Nismo one R34GTR for a$4000 plus. we can't say 1K one is fake as that was FRP with a layer of true carbon fibre on top. The different as not as hard, yellow color and small crack after years (heat of engine) . But weight are pretty much same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28670-weight-reduction/#findComment-592973
Share on other sites

R33

Stock bonnet 18Kg

UAS Carbon bonnet 10Kg

Stock front seat 18Kg ( My Recaro is quite a bit heavier)

combined rear sear 18Kg

You don't save much over the stock wheels/205's if you have much bigger lightweights

I have Weds sports racing 18x8&9 with 235 40and 265 35 overall saving is about 0.5Kg. About the same for my Modena 2's 17x8.5&9.5 with 245 40 and 265 35

Turbo is quite heavy....you could save a few Kilos there ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28670-weight-reduction/#findComment-593062
Share on other sites

Hi guys, completely removing the HICAS saved 18 kgs on our R32 GTST.

Ohh and I always make the drivers take a peee before they race, every little bit helps.

lol, no doubt they are so nervous they can't help it.

I'm currently building a car for production car racing, I'll try and get some before and after weights

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28670-weight-reduction/#findComment-594995
Share on other sites

I only ever burn 1 song to a CD when im out driving my car. The additional weight of those extra 19 songs is astonishing.

Oh and use the blank CD's from Strathfields too. . . they are made from a thinner plastic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28670-weight-reduction/#findComment-595039
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...